View Full Version : Chain differences?
macdaid
October 6th, 2007, 02:54 PM
How can you tell what type of chain one has?
Reason for asking; my build uses parts from several bikes and I'm not sure what chain I've got; 8 or 9 spd.
There must be standard dim.s between side plates. Any one know them offhand?
tuba_transport
October 6th, 2007, 03:28 PM
http://tinyurl.com/2uqqlo
8sp chain is 7.1 mm wide, 9sp 6.6 mm wide. (The old 7sp is 7.4 mm wide.)
macdaid
October 7th, 2007, 11:34 AM
Thanks Tuba!
rsosborn
October 8th, 2007, 02:34 PM
also, is it worth upgrading your chain? i was looking at upgrades and was thinking of an XT chain.
brian_brox
October 8th, 2007, 02:47 PM
also, is it worth upgrading your chain? i was looking at upgrades and was thinking of an XT chain.
When your current one wears out, it's not much more expensive to upgrade when replacing. I believe that most of the difference will be weight rather than shifting performance. Upgrading the cassette at the same time would be wise since they wear out together.
jabberwocky
October 8th, 2007, 02:52 PM
also, is it worth upgrading your chain? i was looking at upgrades and was thinking of an XT chain.I would not upgrade your chain unless you are also replacing the cassette/chainrings (or unless whole drivetrain is brand new). Pairing new chains to worn drivetrain components can cause all kinds of shifting/skipping problems. Not really worth the potential trouble, in my opinion.
cbottcher
October 8th, 2007, 04:50 PM
also, is it worth upgrading your chain? i was looking at upgrades and was thinking of an XT chain.
I have not found the more expensive chains to last any longer than the cheaper models. They wear about the same, so I buy cheaper chains say Sram PC59 instead of PC89 and replace them more often before they are stretched and ruin my cassette and chainrings. Buy a couple of the cheapest when they go on sale.
tuba_transport
October 8th, 2007, 04:57 PM
I have not found the more expensive chains to last any longer than the cheaper models. They wear about the same, so I buy cheaper chains say Sram PC59 instead of PC89 and replace them more often before they are stretched and ruin my cassette and chainrings. Buy a couple of the cheapest when they go on sale.
Maybe it was just a queenkidink, but I recently tried the Shimano XTR/Dura Ace 9sp chain since it is only $21 or so instead of the outrageous $50 or so for Wippermans stainless steel chain I usually blow money on.
I have already had 3 breaks with that darned thing. I am gonna go back to the Connex once I run out of powerlinks to keep patching this one up.
macdaid
October 8th, 2007, 05:04 PM
The reason I asked initially was to be sure I matched the right chain to cassette & shifter. My bike is built of such a kluge of parts from 2 or 3 bikes, I wasn't sure of correct compatability.
When I had a shop guy QC the set up, he mentioned the sympathetic karma that builds between chains and gogs. But I'm pretty sure the Cass & Chain I'm using were paired on one of the earlier rigs.
Seems to be working ok anyway.
Thanks for input.
macdaid
October 8th, 2007, 05:06 PM
Stainless chain!
Dang! wouldn't that last like forever?
Maybe it was just a queenkidink, but I recently tried the Shimano XTR/Dura Ace 9sp chain since it is only $21 or so instead of the outrageous $50 or so for Wippermans stainless steel chain I usually blow money on.
I have already had 3 breaks with that darned thing. I am gonna go back to the Connex once I run out of powerlinks to keep patching this one up.
cbottcher
October 8th, 2007, 05:08 PM
also, is it worth upgrading your chain? i was looking at upgrades and was thinking of an XT chain.
I have not found the more expensive chains to last any longer than the cheaper models. They wear about the same, so I buy cheaper chains say Sram PC59 instead of PC89 and replace them more often before they are stretched and ruin my cassette and chainrings. Buy a couple of the cheapest when they go on sale.
jon_baler
October 8th, 2007, 05:16 PM
Maybe it was just a queenkidink, but I recently tried the Shimano XTR/Dura Ace 9sp chain since it is only $21 or so instead of the outrageous $50 or so for Wippermans stainless steel chain I usually blow money on.
I have already had 3 breaks with that darned thing. I am gonna go back to the Connex once I run out of powerlinks to keep patching this one up.
XTR usually means lighter weight, but not more strength. Try some mid level SRAM chains.
BikerMiker
October 8th, 2007, 10:55 PM
Actually, y'all are wrong about the strength issue. More expensive chains have more 'mushrooming' of the pins. They usually deform 360 degrees of the pin so that it creates a better lock with the outer plate. In terms of pure strength, these would measure stronger than the cheaper stuff (pc48, etc).
Most problems with chains are how they are USED. If you jam your shifters and cause your chain to jump around on the rear cassette under load, you'll drive through a chain and cassette quicker than 'normal' wear and tear. If you shift in a more controlled (slower) way, you'll see longer drive train life. Include how clean stuff is, how often the chain is removed and put back on, how it was installed in the first place, how heavy you are, if you spin or mash gears... There are a TON of things that affect drive train life that have very little to do with the quality of the parts.
Personally, I got tired of replacing derailleurs, chains and cassettes on a yearly basis. I thought that I would get more life out of this stuff if I didn't remove it a lot, didn't clean it too much, kept it lubed, tried to spin and ran a rapid rise (low normal) rear derailleur. After 18 months of expert-level 24 hr and 12 hr endurance racing and a pair of SM100s, I'm still in great shape with my drive train. I made the mistake of going big-big on my cassette/chainring and I broke my chain around 2am at 24hrs of Landahl. I fixed it on the trail and have been running just fine ever since. I think I had 2 or 3 more laps after the fix. No problems WITHOUT a quick link on a SRAM chain.
Nobody likes the low-normal stuff from Shimano but I have had great luck with it. Down shifting under load is no problem (no clutching required) and the pre-load of the shifts when transitioning from going down to going up is great. I'm a huge fan.
I'm a huge SRAM chain fan but I run 'em with Shimano cassettes. They make some noise for a few months but they wear together really nice. PC99 chains and XTR cassettes for me. 2+ years every time. And that's with plenty of racing with a 190lb boy on it...
Good luck.
mike
nocro
October 8th, 2007, 11:37 PM
I'm a huge SRAM chain fan but I run 'em with Shimano cassettes. They make some noise for a few months but they wear together really nice. PC99 chains and XTR cassettes for me. 2+ years every time. And that's with plenty of racing with a 190lb boy on it...
I don't race, but I ride quite a bit. I agree with the SRAM chain + Shimano cassette. I typically run PC-58 or PC-68 with an XT cassette.
I recently switched to X.0 rear derailleur from an XT rapid rise derailleur. It has been blissful, but YMMV.
One last suggestion: Rock-n-Roll Gold lube. I'm not a fan of cleaning my bike, but I at least wipe off my chain after every ride. I just grab a rag and wipe the chain off. When I lube the chain after a few rides, I rub the excess lube onto the frame, then wipe the frame down. That extra lube would be wasted otherwise. But this is pretty amazing. I can usually just wipe the frame off. The frame stays clean, and the chain stays clean with very little effort.
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