View Full Version : HT Badge
Brizn
October 2nd, 2007, 07:27 AM
Got me a custom head tube badge and want tips on installation.
I was in Home Depot yesterday, but didn't see any 3M adhesive that I thought would work.. What should I be looking for?
Any tips on the actual application?
drevil
October 2nd, 2007, 08:31 AM
Got me a custom head tube badge and want tips on installation.
I was in Home Depot yesterday, but didn't see any 3M adhesive that I thought would work.. What should I be looking for?
Any tips on the actual application?
JB Weld is what I used for my two headbadges on ti frames. I know Allroy has used the same stuff to attach a headbadge onto a painted frame.
drevil
October 2nd, 2007, 08:43 AM
JB Weld is what I used for my two headbadges on ti frames. I know Allroy has used the same stuff to attach a headbadge onto a painted frame.
Using screws (http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=226205&highlight=retrotec) and voiding warranty ;)
riderx
October 2nd, 2007, 10:07 AM
Personally I'd be looking for a double sided adhesive tape (http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Bonding-Solutions/Double-Coated-Tapes/). JB Weld? No thanks.
If you can't find something locally (which I'm sure you can), try McMaster.com
Of course, I don't have any fancy headbadges so take it for what it's worth.
philvw
October 2nd, 2007, 10:25 AM
I'd use RTV 102 otherwise known as Silicone Rubber Sealant, or what you caulk your tub with. Clean both surfaces with isopropyl alcohol, put in place and hold with a piece of masking tape. The disadvantage is the drying time - overnight. Any excess can be peeled off with a fingernail leaving you a nice waterproof edge, and still very removeable badge. Solarex used RTV to hold the junction boxes on the back of the solar panels, it's amazing how well that stuff holds.
jabberwocky
October 2nd, 2007, 10:26 AM
Turner Bikes actually makes a kit to attach a headtube badge (link) (http://turnerbikes.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23&products_id=50) . They use screws. The badge on my Wily is screwed on also.
hophead
October 2nd, 2007, 10:43 AM
I have used JB weld and it works just dandy. Just remember, it's like a tatoo. Once you JB weld it on there, it's never coming off.
macdaid
October 2nd, 2007, 01:37 PM
3M double stick foam tape.
Strong bonding and removable with heavy-guage fishing line.
You could use wire, but that could scratch the paint.
Comes in black and white. Our fabricators use it to mount graphic panels in museum exhibits. Rock-solid.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/images/B000VZK59K/ref=dp_image_text_0/102-6859458-1295360?ie=UTF8&n=228013&s=hi
allroy
October 2nd, 2007, 02:03 PM
used JBWeld. I filed/sanded the paint off of the area I wanted to attach the headbadge to.
JB Weld is what I used for my two headbadges on ti frames. I know Allroy has used the same stuff to attach a headbadge onto a painted frame.
Brizn
October 2nd, 2007, 08:56 PM
Great feedback.
I like the idea of JB weld, as i've used it for other things and am familiar. I don't like the idea of removing paint from the hT before applying-- just for fear I'd mess something up-- or have 'sanded' area showing after application. Thoughts on bonding badge to painted surface??
I like Phil's suggestion very much, too. And like the idea of a waterproof seal.
There's something about the double sided tape that just doesn't feel right to me.
I ruled out screws early on. At least with adhesion, there's no way to damage or otherwise jeapordize the structural integrity of the tube. Going the cautious route, I guess. I've also instructed Jen Green NOT to drill holes in the badge.. so screws are right out.
Brizn
October 2nd, 2007, 08:58 PM
Phil- not worried about the overnight drying time. Say more about the process. Just apply a bit to each surface, stick, and tape to hold?
hophead
October 3rd, 2007, 09:36 AM
Thoughts on bonding badge to painted surface??
The head badge on my Surly was JB welded over paint. It's been a couple of years and it's still holding strong.
Cjones
October 3rd, 2007, 09:58 AM
I know you've ruled out screws, but there are tons of very high-end frames out there that come with the headtube badge screwed on. There's no way it affects the structural integrity of the frame. I'm pretty sure Jen Green offers a screw kit.
JB Weld just doesn't seen right. You're spending $100 on a finely crafted custom headtube badge and then attaching it with something used to repair engine blocks and radiators?
To me screws just seem more "clean" and "classic". Of course, as you can see from my avatar, I'm a bit biased...
philvw
October 3rd, 2007, 11:59 AM
Phil- not worried about the overnight drying time. Say more about the process. Just apply a bit to each surface, stick, and tape to hold?
There is a primer for RTV, but I wouldnt worry about it, nor would I worry about doing any sanding, etc. Just get a decent solvent like isopropyl achohol or acetone (nail polish remover) and clean the badge and where it's going to go. Make sure you dont get fingerprints (skin oil) on it once you clean it. Cloose your RTV color, clear, white, are the most common but you can get it in just about any color on the wheel. Squirt on the back of the badge and spread it around with an old chpstick or something. Get it kind thick so you will have 100% coverage between the two pieces. Slap that baby on there and push and wiggle so that it oozes out the edges. You can manueuver it around so it sits right where you want it, dont worry about the mess. Hold it in place with your finger and take your other finger and wipe up the oozing excess as much as you can, so you can see how the badge is sitting. Once you have it where you want, place a strip or two of masking tape across it so gravity doesnt let it slide. Wait about 2 hours for the initial set, peel off the masking tape, and you can start to rub off the excess RTV around the edges and on the badge/bike as long as it is thin (remember wiping off the gunky excess earlier?). Let sit overnight to get a full set, and then you can go back and do more cleanup by the friction of rubbing a finger on it, or a knife if there is a 'globby' part, and then follow up with a soft cloth with isopropyl alcohol. That will get rid of the last of the residue. Damn! Put it on upside down? Crooked? Too high? (the badge, not you). Like someone said, use some heavy guage fishing line and pass behind it and it's off. Clean it up a bit and try again!
You could easily 'practice' with putting some RTV on something similar to a bike head tube like an old soda can, spread it so it's thin, let it dry and you will see how it 'rubs' off. That way you wont be freaking out when you have this gloppy mess on your expensive badge and overpriced frame.
Here, I'm sure this video about caulk. (http://www.jibjab.com/view/73183) will help.
allroy
October 3rd, 2007, 12:27 PM
how can adding screws to something be cleaner than something that doesn't have screws?
This is clean, smooth and classic! :p
I know you've ruled out screws, but there are tons of very high-end frames out there that come with the headtube badge screwed on. There's no way it affects the structural integrity of the frame. I'm pretty sure Jen Green offers a screw kit.
JB Weld just doesn't seen right. You're spending $100 on a finely crafted custom headtube badge and then attaching it with something used to repair engine blocks and radiators?
To me screws just seem more "clean" and "classic". Of course, as you can see from my avatar, I'm a bit biased...
kenholmes
October 3rd, 2007, 01:30 PM
I ruled out screws early on. At least with adhesion, there's no way to damage or otherwise jeapordize the structural integrity of the tube. Going the cautious route, I guess. I've also instructed Jen Green NOT to drill holes in the badge.. so screws are right out.
I understand that you dont want to put holes in the badge but...an aside about screws and structural integrity.
any headtube is going to be able to take putting two little screws in it, even it it is aluminum. think about the thickness of the ht and then remember that it acts as a lever on the rest of the bike, transfering a ton of force through the keel of the bike, namely the down tube, bb, and chain stays. each of those tubes is thinner than the ht and has larger holes in it, either breathing holes for gas expansion during welding or bottle bosses. to add to that thought you are filling the hole back up with screw, so there isnt a void that reduces the structural integrity (thought on a super thin tube it would create a stress riser). your chainstays, seat stays, bb probably have holes in them and they are not plugged, so your ht can defintly take it.
what is the value of this at the end of the day.... repainting the frame, or easy removal for melting down the headbage to pay loansharks, etc.?
dont be afraid of drilling holes in things, it reduces weight and thus you go faster
trust me it works!
Cjones
October 3rd, 2007, 01:38 PM
I did say that I was biased... he he
You make a good point, but why do most nice handcrafted frames (Independent Fabrication, Seven, Sycip, Moots, Jones, and everyone else) use screws to attach their headbadges?
yueq
October 3rd, 2007, 01:56 PM
I did say that I was biased... he he
You make a good point, but why do most nice handcrafted frames (Independent Fabrication, Seven, Sycip, Moots, Jones, and everyone else) use screws to attach their headbadges?
My guess is because they use steel or titanium, not aluminum.
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