Binding Cranks

[kevin29r]

The cranks on my Fisher bind and squeak after cleaning. Strangely, this is only noticeable when rotating the cranks forward. Reverse rotation does not bind, and has only a minute squeak. Does anyone know what causes this on a sealed Tru-Vative bottom bracket?

My bike shop fixed this problem once by disassembling, cleaning, and re-greasing the assembly. I am not sure why, or how one would grease a sealed bottom bracket.

[BikerMiker]

Squeak might be your derailleur pulleys and the binding might be your rear hub, not the bottom bracket.

I'll bet you $.05.

mike

[jmblur]

Squeak might be your derailleur pulleys and the binding might be your rear hub, not the bottom bracket.

I'll bet you $.05.

mike

Best way to check: get the bike in a situation where it's binding/squeaking, then remove the chain (either by "dropping" the chain to the inside onto the BB shell, or if you have a Powerlink, removing it entirely). Does one/both stop if you spin the cranks again?

If not, you just won yourself 5 cents!

[kevin29r]

The condition is in the bottom bracket. I had already moved the chain off the rings.

Now that the bike is clean, I will drop it off at the shop for a free tune up and advice on what to do with bottom bracket.

[BikerMiker]

DAMN! Another nickel lost!

mike

[eloach]

I had to grease between the EBB and the frame to get my Salsa Scandium Juan Solo to shut up. A fellow on the ride yesterday also the same problem with his Salsa with an EBB (29er). I think they both have a Bushnell EBB. I have found it also helps a lot to assure that the tightening bracket is pointed toward the bottom or back of the frame as much as possible to reduce the down stroke torque on the locking point.

I don't know what BB setup you have, but might try greasing the between the frame and the BB. The "binding" part is scary though. What to you mean by that? As in the cranks have friction when you attempt to turn them?

Also, the Park Tool School course I took recommended using blue thread lock between the BB and the frame threads, but I don't like doing that because it makes a mess that needs to be cleaned out when you pull the BB to clean and such, but others swear by it.

[BikerMiker]

For no creaks in the BB area, remove, clean all threads with wire brush then clean, dry rag. Apply a coating of grease on the bb shell of the frame (3-5mm) then wrap the threads of the bb cups with plumber's tape (teflon tape). Make sure you wrap it in the direction of the threads so that you don't spin the stuff off when you insert it. It will be obvious pretty quickly if you did it wrong.

You should be OK with this setup for a year or more. Don't forget to clean/grease the ISIS, Octalink or 2-piece splines before attaching but DO NOT grease the bb if it is a square taper jobby.

Enjoy. Maybe I can win my nickel back.

mike

[EJensen]

Also, the Park Tool School course I took ...
Now that sounds like fun. Where/when was that, and how did you like it?

Regards,
Eric

[eloach]

Now that sounds like fun. Where/when was that, and how did you like it?

Regards,
Eric

I took it at REI. It was a lot of fun and very helpful. Spokes at Belview also offers a slightly more complete version of the course and a wheel building course as well. I took the wheel building course at Spokes and would recommend any course with Bill Mould there.

[kevin29r]

. . .The "binding" part is scary though. What to you mean by that? As in the cranks have friction when you attempt to turn them?

The binding consists of a noticeable resistance in a portion of the crank revolution. It only happens when pedaling forward, and it happens in a repeatable crank position. Working the crank back and forth in that area temporary frees the crank. I still think grit builds up in that area, and washing pushes the grit further into the space between the crank, ISIS spline, and frame.

[kevin29r]

For no creaks in the BB area, remove, clean all threads with wire brush then clean, dry rag. Apply a coating of grease on the bb shell of the frame (3-5mm) then wrap the threads of the bb cups with plumber's tape (teflon tape). Make sure you wrap it in the direction of the threads so that you don't spin the stuff off when you insert it. It will be obvious pretty quickly if you did it wrong.

You should be OK with this setup for a year or more. Don't forget to clean/grease the ISIS, Octalink or 2-piece splines before attaching but DO NOT grease the bb if it is a square taper jobby.

Enjoy. Maybe I can win my nickel back.

mike
I think my bike shop performed the operation above, minus the Teflon tape. Good idea, by the way. Maybe I should invest in the crank tools myself to fix this, or supply the bike shop with some Teflon tape, and ask them to do it.

Thanks for the tip, Mike. 5 cents returned.

[BikerMiker]

Woohoo! I'm rich!

mike