urbaindk
April 18th, 2007, 05:54 PM
I've been asked this question a few times so I thought maybe I should address it. It might keep some budding freerider from killing a nice frame, who knows? Feel free to add your own input and thoughts.
To start out with, your typical XC bike maybe OK for learning basic skills, do small drops and jumps, learning to balance on skinny low-to-the-ground logs, etc. Beyond that, freeride tends to be hard on bikes and components and if you aren't careful bodies. A typical XC bike is usually designed for riding moderate to rough cross country trails. Beginning freeride is probably OK. You'll probably only break the standard stuff like derailleurs, etc. Wheels might suffer a bit. Your wallet might also suffer a little, too. If you are smooth, you can get away with 1-2 foot drops or bigger drops with transitions. Depending on how fast you progress through this stage of your riding career, you may want to start looking at other options.
When you start to ride bigger, steeper, rougher, faster downhills, drops, etc., your safety becomes a factor. Once you start riding things that are a little bigger, you have to start worrying about snapping your head tube, breaking your fork, smashing wheels, etc. Not only will your wallet scream, so will you, all the way to the ER. A freeride bike or downhill bike is going to be overbuilt and reinforced in areas where other bikes might be prone to breaking. This would include a heavier gusseted frame, sturdier wheels, stem, cranks and bars. Usually they are pretty heavy (mid 30's to upwards of 50lbs). This doesn't mean that you won't end up wrecking yourself real good, it just means that it probably won't be because your bike broke. Somewhere in between these two extremes is the "all mountain" bike which can handle more than an XC bike and less than a free ride or DH bike.
Another factor is geometry. An XC bike has a steeper head tube angle and long stem. This gives your more precise and reactive steering and excels in climbing. However, this type of geometry sucks for making really steep descents. It just plain feels sketchy. A dedicated freeride bike will have a slacker headtube angle and a short stem, this gives more stability at speed and helps the fork get over big stuff that pops up in the way. This geometry also puts you in a really good position when the going gets steep. Conversely, it will tend to suck for climbing. Again the all mountain bike tries to make a compromise between the two.
In a perfect world, one might have all three bikes sitting at home in the garage. Hell throw in nice road bike just good measure. Most of us don't have that kind of cash laying around though. For starting out, I recommend a burly hardtail. For the money you can't beat it. You can get a good stout frame for a fraction of the cost of a decent fully. Throw a grand into a hardtail and you'll have a nice bike, throw a grand at a fully and you have a piece of crap. So a modest investment will get you into the sport. Try it, like it, save your pennies for a nice plush ride. Hate it and you're not out of pocket too much. An added benefit is that a hardtail will force you to learn to be smooth. Sure you can plow your way through anything with a 8" to 10" travel frame but how graceful is that?
To start out with, your typical XC bike maybe OK for learning basic skills, do small drops and jumps, learning to balance on skinny low-to-the-ground logs, etc. Beyond that, freeride tends to be hard on bikes and components and if you aren't careful bodies. A typical XC bike is usually designed for riding moderate to rough cross country trails. Beginning freeride is probably OK. You'll probably only break the standard stuff like derailleurs, etc. Wheels might suffer a bit. Your wallet might also suffer a little, too. If you are smooth, you can get away with 1-2 foot drops or bigger drops with transitions. Depending on how fast you progress through this stage of your riding career, you may want to start looking at other options.
When you start to ride bigger, steeper, rougher, faster downhills, drops, etc., your safety becomes a factor. Once you start riding things that are a little bigger, you have to start worrying about snapping your head tube, breaking your fork, smashing wheels, etc. Not only will your wallet scream, so will you, all the way to the ER. A freeride bike or downhill bike is going to be overbuilt and reinforced in areas where other bikes might be prone to breaking. This would include a heavier gusseted frame, sturdier wheels, stem, cranks and bars. Usually they are pretty heavy (mid 30's to upwards of 50lbs). This doesn't mean that you won't end up wrecking yourself real good, it just means that it probably won't be because your bike broke. Somewhere in between these two extremes is the "all mountain" bike which can handle more than an XC bike and less than a free ride or DH bike.
Another factor is geometry. An XC bike has a steeper head tube angle and long stem. This gives your more precise and reactive steering and excels in climbing. However, this type of geometry sucks for making really steep descents. It just plain feels sketchy. A dedicated freeride bike will have a slacker headtube angle and a short stem, this gives more stability at speed and helps the fork get over big stuff that pops up in the way. This geometry also puts you in a really good position when the going gets steep. Conversely, it will tend to suck for climbing. Again the all mountain bike tries to make a compromise between the two.
In a perfect world, one might have all three bikes sitting at home in the garage. Hell throw in nice road bike just good measure. Most of us don't have that kind of cash laying around though. For starting out, I recommend a burly hardtail. For the money you can't beat it. You can get a good stout frame for a fraction of the cost of a decent fully. Throw a grand into a hardtail and you'll have a nice bike, throw a grand at a fully and you have a piece of crap. So a modest investment will get you into the sport. Try it, like it, save your pennies for a nice plush ride. Hate it and you're not out of pocket too much. An added benefit is that a hardtail will force you to learn to be smooth. Sure you can plow your way through anything with a 8" to 10" travel frame but how graceful is that?