Road pedal advice

[skillet999]

Building up my first road bike. I am looking for pedals but not sure about the various systems from the different manufacturers. Looking for a "can't miss" choice - something like the Time ATAC of road pedals. I will use this bike for training rides, some racing.
Thanks
Dave

[blacknell]

I *love* my Speedplay Frogs (http://www.speedplay.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=home.frog). Been using them for years of hard road riding. I know they're technically a MTB pedal, but I'm not the only one who has them on his or her road bike. I picked them for the very generous float they give my knees. If I didn't need that float, I'd probably pick the Speedplay Zero's.

[eloach]

If you think you might have to do any walking, go with SPD or you MTB style and just twear your mtn shoes.

I have a pair of Speed Play X5, but the "cleats" for them stick down from the shoe so far you couldn't walk 50 yards. In addition, many road shoes have very slick bottoms on them.

So to sum up, put the same thing on the road bike as the MTB and keep the same shoes. It saves money and is practical.

If you want to RACE the road bike, then the specialty stuff probably worth the trouble and Speed Play stuff is very nice.

One other thing with SpeedPlay road pedals: If you dab in some mud or such you may not be able to unclip from the pedal, which would be unexpected, since normally they are fairly easy to get in an out of.

[drewdane]

Building up my first road bike. I am looking for pedals but not sure about the various systems from the different manufacturers. Looking for a "can't miss" choice - something like the Time ATAC of road pedals. I will use this bike for training rides, some racing.
Thanks
Dave
If you already run Times on your MTB, they make an ATAC "road" pedal as well. http://www.speedgoat.com/product.asp?part=113952&cat=240&brand=255

However, I've got a pair of the precursor to these (Time Cyclos), and I found not only are they a PITA like all single-sided clipless pedals, but they really, really made my feet hurt for some reason. Go figure.

[rodnreel729]

I agree with Eloach, why not just use the same pedal system you use on your MTB. I run the Time Atac Z pedals on my MTB (the ones with the platform) and the regular old Time Atac's on my road bike. That way I can just use my mountain shoes for both bikes, and spend the money that I would've spent on road shoes elsewhere! Plus I think MTB pedals are easier to clip in and out of anyway...

--Kevin

[redclayrambler]

Time road pedals (RXS) have worked well for me.
When I finally got a real road bike (as opposed to my cross/commuter bike) I went ahead and got real road pedals/shoes as well, no complaints.
They are a little harder to clip in and out of, but they also have a wider platform to push against, are lighter and the shoes are a little lighter and stiffer.
If you are going to race and have the cash I think it would be a good idea to get a road set up.
Having said that, mountain pedals and shoes work fine as well (that's what I have on my commuter), as others have pointed out.
Good luck

[markie]

Vote #3 for using whatever you use on your MTB.

The roadies may laugh at you, but then you can laugh at them when they try and walk.

There is nothing worse than going to a ride and realising you have the wrong shoes. Use the same shoes on all your bikes.

I like spds 'cuz they are cheap and so am I.

[Jim D]

I've been riding road & off-road for a lotta years. If you care about float, Time has made great systems for both for a long time. I use the ATAC offroad and commuting. They're great. For the road, the Time "cafe cleat" system should be worth checking out, you can walk without cleat covers. I think Shimano has an equivalent pedal.

If you're gonna road RACE, try to get a road specific system. Performance is better (lighter, stiffer), and appearances actually matter. If you don't look like a dedicated & competent roadie, others will be afraid you'll crash them, and will be less likely to ride close to you/cooperate with you. May sound silly, but in that setting it's actually a logical survival instinct (and maybe the reason Cat4/5 road races have a tense vibe). If you're not going to race or do semi-serious group rides, stick with the ATACs.
Enjoy!

[tsteele999]

On my geared road bike, I use Shimano Ultegra Look-style pedals. They really are great- not too expensive, the cleats are durable, stiff as heck, and they release only when I need them to.

http://bike.shimano.com/catalog/cycle/products/component.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=8 45524441770660&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302050 755&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=140847439518 1674&bmUID=1173013451934

I recommend some good road shoes if you are going to be riding serious miles. They have better ventilation and are stiffer than mtb shoes.

On my fixed gear, I use eggbeaters and my mountain shoes. I occasionally have to walk- downhills as well as uphills. The eggs are fine for fixie duty.

[jon_baler]

Crank Brothers now makes a road version of the popular eggbeater pedal. You could use them both with your mountain shoes for casual rides, or with road shoes....

[punga]

Another vote for using your MTB pedals for the road. I'm running Speedplay frogs as well and don't think I would want to switch roadies for not only the cost but also, the familiarity. My legs are trained to get in and out of the Frogs and why mess with that. The whole muscle memory thing.

FWIW, when I bought this bike, it came with a pair of Dura-Ace pedals, so I'm already half way there if I wanted to go the roadie route.

punga!

[brian_brox]

I use time attacs on my road and mountain bike, but I'm thinking about switching to some Look-style raod pedals becuase:

-my feet are going numb on longer road rides and I would like more surface area
-i'd like to play with the float and really dial it in on the road
-when i get around to upgrading my shoes, i'd like a stiffer road shoe than mountain
-I'd like to be able to use the lower profile road booties in the cold
-I want velcro on the road shoes for the bad-ass triathlon transition where the shoes are already mounted to the bike

however, I really like the simplicity of one pair of shoes and the mtb pedals are perfectly fine 95% of the time.

[blacknell]

If you get to a point where you're looking seriously at Look-style pedals, try for a few rides before you buy (I might be able to put my hands on a pair you could borrow, if you can't find them anywhere else). I hated them, mostly for the single-sidedness. But I know plenty of folks who swear by them.

Also, good points above about the stiffness of road shoes. It may be a function of my MTB shoes being a pretty cheap pair, but I wouldn't want to put any serious road miles in with them. Too hot, too flexy.

[crack monkey]

I also use Time Atacs on both mtn and road bikes. No complaints, though I've yet to do anything more than 50 miles at a time on the road.

I didn't want the cost and bother of having two sets of shoes, two different pedal systems to adjust/maintain, etc. I know how to use the Atacs, know how I like the cleat set, etc.

If your toes are going numb, maybe you need to adjust the cleat a bit? I had that problem, but it was solved by moving the cleat back a small amount on the shoe, so pressure was farther back on my foot.

[skillet999]

Appreciate all the feedback. I am going road specific as I already have roadie shoes and I am too weak minded and insecure to show up at a roadie group ride with MTB pedals and baggy shorts..... but that's just me! Thanks again - going home to shave my legs now and have a cup of EPO.

[BikerMiker]

-my feet are going numb on longer road rides and I would like more surface area


It's not the pedals, it's your shoes. I promise. Get some new shoes or good inserts with good arch support. If you haven't gotten your arches measured and supported them with the proper insert, you are REALLY missing out. Cleat surface area has NOTHING to do with pedal/shoe comfort, don't be mislead.

Shoes are stiff enough and your foot is WAY bigger than any road/mtn clipless pedal and you need proper support of your foot (and both arches, lateral and longitudinal).

For pedals, I'm a huge Speedplay x2 fan. I used to run mtn pedals on the road bike to save money but I put on a wet shoe for a road ride ONE TIME before I bought something dedicated for the road bike.

Best pedal for road is a two-sided pedal with some float and good cornering clearance. Get whatever fits into that for you. But make sure you get your shoes straightened out...

mike

[CRAIG2]

Whatever you do, just make sure your pedals, shoes, tights, and helmet are all color coordinated - anything else is just uncivilzed. ha! :D

[skillet999]

I have the Sidi road version of the Sidi dominator MTB shoe. Nice and stiff (i think). BTW - if that was you on WAMU a week ago, speaking about retail in WDC and patronizing local shops - very enlightening for me, right on!

[bepooch]

I've been riding/racing with Speedplay road pedals for several seasons now without any problems. Cornering clearance has never been an issue with these pedals. Lots of knee-friendly float - actually takes a ride or two to get used to compared to that locked in feel of mtb pedals.

[burgh punk]

Vote #3 for using whatever you use on your MTB.

The roadies may laugh at you, but then you can laugh at them when they try and walk.

There is nothing worse than going to a ride and realising you have the wrong shoes. Use the same shoes on all your bikes.

I like spds 'cuz they are cheap and so am I.


Ditto on this... spds rock

[BikerMiker]

Sidi Dominators are not that stiff. I have had four pairs of those to prove it. Dino (the Sidi guy) believes that a certain amount of flex in the shoe is actually GOOD for your feet (not so). That's why I USED to love 'em. Now I've learned that stiffer soles with good support are the best thing for your feet. At events like 24hr races and the SM100, I have never had problems. I will offer you a personal promise (backed up with money back) if you get new inserts for your shoes (or better yet, new shoes) from Spec'd. You'll be STOKED. I have turned quite a few people onto Spec'd shoes because they are the best for your feet, hands down, so to speak.

This isn't a commercial as I don't care where you buy your new shoes, but you should get yourself involved with carbon soles and some measured inserts. Spec'd has a arch-o-meter which helps you choose the height of the arch support YOU need for YOUR feet.

And there is no such thing as a 'hot-spot' from pedals. That is a myth. It has everything to do with the repeated compression and relaxation of your arches with every pedal stroke.

mike

[BikerMiker]

Oh yeah, that was me on NPR. I was hoping it would go unnoticed...

mike

[riderx]

Sidi Dominators are not that stiff. I have had four pairs of those to prove it. Dino (the Sidi guy) believes that a certain amount of flex in the shoe is actually GOOD for your feet (not so). That's why I USED to love 'em. Now I've learned that stiffer soles with good support are the best thing for your feet. At events like 24hr races and the SM100, I have never had problems. I will offer you a personal promise (backed up with money back) if you get new inserts for your shoes (or better yet, new shoes) from Spec'd. You'll be STOKED. I have turned quite a few people onto Spec'd shoes because they are the best for your feet, hands down, so to speak.Sorry Mike, I've got to disagree. For me Sidis are plenty stiff, Specialized were too stiff. Tried the Specialized, went back to the Sidis. Same thing with the Shimano carbon soled shoes. The only reason I left the Sidis was I was wearing them out pretty fast, but comfort triumphs in this case.

Every body (or everybody) is different though. When it comes to equipment I guess I'm just SSOFT.

[BikerMiker]

Ok, there's 'I think it's stiff enough' and stuff that's actually stiffer than others. I don't have the stiffness info in front of me, but insinuating that LESS support is better for your feet is not a good idea. Cycling is a great natural motion for humans and is very efficient but riding in shoes that aren't stiff is less than ideal, ask Dr Pruitt at UC Boulder.

I'd love to get you on stiffer shoes with the right inserts. I have a 100% success rate with all kinds of riders...

mike

[punga]

heh heh heh... you said stiff.. heh heh heh..

BTW, i have nothing useful to add at this point other than I had Sidi's for the past 2 years and was pretty happy with them besides durability (I don't remember the model, but they have velcro straps instead of a ratchet closer. I got a pair of Specialized Sawtooths this winter (3/4 cut boots, not the bling bling race types, but they claim to have carbon sole inserts and can be walked in). I like the feel of the insoles so far, but they did take some getting used to. Not wearing them very much these days because I swapped out my Speedplays for CB Mallets to deal with the recent snow conditions and have a set of Diadora's set up for the CBs.

punga!

[riderx]

Ok, there's 'I think it's stiff enough' and stuff that's actually stiffer than others. I don't have the stiffness info in front of me, but insinuating that LESS support is better for your feet is not a good idea. I'm no shoe salesman like Al Bundy, but I'd say sole stiffness and support (as in arch) can be two different qualities in a shoe. I'd also venture to say riding style factors into things too. I'm most definitely a MASHER.

I don't think you can get any stiffer than those Shimano carbon fiber shoes I had. I tried to like 'em, I swear. But in the end they just hurt my feet. Wooden clogs are probably as stiff as you can get a shoe to be, but even with custom inserts I'm willing to bet they might be too stiff even for you ;)

I've still got my Specialized and I've been meaning to check out some good inserts so they don't go to waste. Whenever I get off of my lazy but and give them a try I'll report back.

[BikerMiker]

Please do! Support of the arches is everything, believe me. I'm a bit of a masher meself (and I outweigh you by a few cases) and stiffer soles are better for us bigger guys and slower pedalers. I also went with the highest arch support I could get (one up from my measurement) and I'm REALLY happy with it.

Let me know when you are around and I'll measure you up and get you set up with some shoes and inserts...

mike

[Jim D]

I've been riding/racing with Speedplay road pedals for several seasons now without any problems. Cornering clearance has never been an issue with these pedals. Lots of knee-friendly float - actually takes a ride or two to get used to compared to that locked in feel of mtb pedals.

These are good points, but...I switched from Time road pedals to Speedplay X/2 pedals a few years back. I did so because they are light and relatively cheap. I have to say I’m not crazy about them, especially the massive amount of float. They feel extremely loose to me. If you go with Speedplay, I’d recommend looking at the newer “Zero” model. Also, get the cleat covers for $10, you can easily carry them in a jersey pocket.

[BikerMiker]

The Zero or X2 question is a good one. Zero has zero to 20-ish degrees of float. It is 100% free float, meaning there is no centering force created by the spring. You also have a very stiff entry/exit force, much like Time, Shimano, etc. With the X2, you have a slight centering force from the spring (and I mean SLIGHT) with much easier entry and exit; easier than Zero, Time, Shimano, etc.

I'm sure most shops do this, but we offer trainer test rides. We'll bolt up the cleats, install the pedals on a bike, put the bike on a trainer and let you hang out and get to know the pedal before buying. I learned that working for Speedplay a decade ago...

mike