Winter maintenance

[Fitz]

During the rest of the year, I keep my drivechain clean by taking it out in the back yard and using various brushes, chain cleaning tool, etc. But now that it's been freezing for quite some time, I've become negligent, relying on the old wipe-n-lube method, which is undoubtedly shortening chain and cog lifespan. What techniques do yinz use for indoor drivetrain maintenance to avoid greasing up your house? I do have a basement workshop area, but I can easily see it getting bad down there if I start letting the grease fly.

[jabberwocky]

During the rest of the year, I keep my drivechain clean by taking it out in the back yard and using various brushes, chain cleaning tool, etc. But now that it's been freezing for quite some time, I've become negligent, relying on the old wipe-n-lube method, which is undoubtedly shortening chain and cog lifespan. What techniques do yinz use for indoor drivetrain maintenance to avoid greasing up your house? I do have a basement workshop area, but I can easily see it getting bad down there if I start letting the grease fly.If I'm in a hurry, I use one of those park chain cleaners with automotive degreaser in it. It does a pretty good job and I can clean the chain and relube it in about 5 minutes.

If I'm more willing to take my time, I take the chain off and toss it in a jar of lacquer thinner which dissolves the grease (and pretty much everything that isn't metal). I'll take the cassette off and clean it in the sink with some degreaser and a stiff brush, and I clean the chainrings and derailleur by wiping them with some degreaser first and then a damp towel. Rinse the cassette and chain in the sink, reassemble and dry everything, and then put fresh lube on there. The whole process takes maybe 20 minutes, and leaves the drivetrain spotlessly clean.

[paulg]

I've had good luck with Prolink chain lube. The first application lifts dirt out of the links which you can clean off by running the chain through a rag. Let it dry and add a little bit more. It's a dry type lube which doesn't attract the dirt but if you ride in the slush a wet lube may be better. Prolink seems to work pretty well in my opinion.

http://www.progoldmfr.com/products/prolink.html

I know I'm risking a long thread on chain lubes as this subject can get quite emotional at times but I'm open to other products and techniques that other people may have tried. :)

Paul G

[jabberwocky]

I've had good luck with Prolink chain lube.Thats what I use as well. I've tried various other lubes but I think prolink is the best (that I've found).

The one downside is that it washes off pretty easily if you ride in the wet. If I commute in the rain a few times and forget to relube my chain, the drivetrain starts squeaking.

[BikerMiker]

I have mentioned this plenty of times before, but I never use any degreaser. It gets in places that you can't get it out (inside the rollers on chains) and it eats its way out through the lube after you put it back on. If you are crazy enough to atomize it by blowing compressed air through the chain, you better wear a mask.

I use different lubes to clean and lube depending on my last ride. White lightning is alcohol and soap (detergent) so it's basically a solvent and cleaner but it's water-based so it will wash off in a stream crossing. I use Pedros synlube or Phil Wood chain lube LIBERALLY on the stand after the White Lightning (or RockNRoll), backpedal a few dozen times then wipe clean with a few dry, clean rags.

I'll occasionally wipe down the cassette and chainrings after applying lots of lube (see above). I've seen too many chains break from repeated install/remove (Shimano) and too much short-lived components from obsessive cleaning (shop setting).

This also goes to the whole 'chain/cassette life' discussion where people think that it's a good idea to throw away a few chains a year to 'save' the cassette.

mike

[Brizn]

I pull the chain off, put it in a plastic bowl, spray it liberally with some fairly enviro-friendly degreaser, let it sit, drain the degreaser off INTO MY TRASH BAG, place chain inside of a medium-sized gatorade bottle, squirt some dish soap in, fill 3/4 with hot water, put lid on tight, shake rigorously, drain, repeat until the chain is fully rinsed, reinstall, lube real' goodly.

Pretty much same deal with cassette cleanage. Except that more often i just wipe it really good without popping it off.

[jabberwocky]

I have mentioned this plenty of times before, but I never use any degreaser. It gets in places that you can't get it out (inside the rollers on chains) and it eats its way out through the lube after you put it back on. If you are crazy enough to atomize it by blowing compressed air through the chain, you better wear a mask.Good point. If you do use degreaser, you do need to be pretty good about rinsing. Most degreasers are essentially concentrated soap though, and dissolve in water. As long as you are good about thoroughly rinsing it is pretty easy to get it all off.

I've seen too many chains break from repeated install/remove (Shimano) and too much short-lived components from obsessive cleaning (shop setting).Thats why I like SRAM powerlinks. Makes it very easy to remove the chain for cleaning.

[philman]

I think people need to define what they mean by "degreaser" Chris is using some powerful stuff. I assume the automotive degreaser he's refering to is petroleum based. Dump that into Brian's trash bag and your going to have a mess on garbage day. Industrial grade lacquer thinner is powerful stuff. Highly flammable, corrosive to respiratory membranes, eats anything plastic etc. Not stuff I would want to use in my kitchen sink, or keep or use anywhere kids are going to be around. The citrus degreasers are less effective but much more benign. If you drip a little of them on the kitchen floor you have time to wipe it up before it leaves a dull spot. Plus they leave that fresh fruity scent and can be disposed of with a clean consience. The others are classed as hazardous waste and should be disposed of at a suitable site. (Not the sewer)

Pat

[jabberwocky]

I think people need to define what they mean by "degreaser" Chris is using some powerful stuff. I assume the automotive degreaser he's refering to is petroleum based.Sorry, I misspoke. I buy it in bulk at an automotive store because its cheaper, but it is a mild citrus based degreaser, same as you would get at a bike shop. I just wash it down the sink when I'm done.

The lacquer thinner, on the other hand, is not good stuff. But I keep that in a glass jar and keep reusing it.

[philman]

Sorry, I misspoke. I buy it in bulk at an automotive store because its cheaper, but it is a mild citrus based degreaser, same as you would get at a bike shop.

I figured you were an enviromentaly sensitive guy. Just wanted to make the point that people need to be careful what they bring into their homes. I know wood finishers who have worked with lacquer thinner for years and get nosebleeds when they sneeze.

[jabberwocky]

I know wood finishers who have worked with lacquer thinner for years and get nosebleeds when they sneeze.Tell me about it. My dad sprays Deft (nitrocellulose lacquer) all day in an enclosed basement with no ventilation. I yell at him about it every time I go home and catch him doing it, but hes pretty stubborn and won't listen to me. The sad part is I keep a few very nice face masks with charcoal filters there for when I'm home using the shop, but he wont use them. And the worst part is he has chest and breathing problems. :(

Nitrocellulose lacquer is nasty stuff, for sure.

[bunky]

Degreaser: Simple green--straight

Chain: Fill up half a spaghetti sauce jar with simple green. Undo quick link. Immerse chain and put lid on jar. Shake gently for a few minutes. Wait a couple of hours and shake again. Remove chain and brish anywhere crud still clinging. Reimmerse--then wash thoroughly with water. In order to avoid internal links rusting, dry as much as you can with terrycloth--then coil up the chain and set under a desk lamp with a regular 100 watt bulb--the heat from the bulb will dry out the inside surfaces of the chain before it can rust up. Resinstall on bike. Apply lube, reverse pedal for a minute or two and wipe down as much excess as possible.

Cassette: Remove and place in a large tupperware bowl with plenty of simple green. Secure top and shake vigorously. Leave overnight. Shake again. When significant other leaves to go grocery shopping, run through dishwasher. Chortle generously at your combined cunning and deviousness. Stop chortling immediately if you forget to get said parts out of dishwasher before significant other comes home.

Chainrings: Can just brush off with the Park Brush.

Pulleys: when chain removed, use old credit card to remove gunk and then wipe with cloth rag--if lots of resistance (shouldn't be, but could be), replace.

[fausto]

When I clean I use dish soap in a ultrasonic jewelry cleaner. After buzzing a chain for 25-30 minutes it's clean - like you could eat off it.

But I don't clean my chains that often. I use DuMonde tech lube on a clean chain; it doesn't attract dirt and doesn't need to be cleaned. On my road bike I can easily get 8-10k miles out of a 10s chain before it's stretched 0.5% (my threshold before I toss - to prolong the life of the ridiculously expensive cassette). I don't always track millage on the mtb, but life is similar - 1.5-2 years of "normal" riding.

[soreback]

i use pedros citrus or parks citrus degreaser. i either use the park chain cleaner or take the chain apart at the SRAM connectors and soak in the aforementioned products and gently agitate it. and rinse with liberal amounts of cold water and allow it to dry. those two citrus degreasers render it spic and span clean. i then lube with prolink gold.

i do not take off the cassette, i just meticulously wipe it down with rags and brushes.

[Brizn]

spkg of winter maintenance, what's the best technique for cleaning v brake pads and rim side walls? That salt/slush/ice combo can really eat 'em up.

Used to use windex back in the day- for walls and pads alike. I'm guessing mild soap and warm water is sure-fire as well.

[Brizn]

spkg of winter maintenance, what's the best technique for cleaning v brake pads and rim side walls?

Bumping..............

[ride-n-fall]

spkg of winter maintenance, what's the best technique for cleaning v brake pads and rim side walls? That salt/slush/ice combo can really eat 'em up.

Used to use windex back in the day- for walls and pads alike. I'm guessing mild soap and warm water is sure-fire as well.

I have heard that rubbing alcohol works pretty good on the rims and brake pads. Actually, I heard that it works well for disc brakes as well.

[tsunayoshi]

Semi hijack...just bought my first new chain, SRAM PC-48 with the power-links. SRAM's site says it comes pre-lubed. Is their lube decent, or should I clean their's off and apply my own (RockNRoll).

[ride-n-fall]

Semi hijack...just bought my first new chain, SRAM PC-48 with the power-links. SRAM's site says it comes pre-lubed. Is their lube decent, or should I clean their's off and apply my own (RockNRoll).

I am a big fan of cleaning the "pre-lube" off and using my own preferred lube.

Also, it was nice to meet you on Tom's ride yesterday. Semper Fi.

John

[Brizn]

I'd say clean off that sticky stuff that chains come packed in and apply your own.

RnF: I use those little pre=packaged etoh swabs for my discs.. maybe i'll see how they do on sidewalls.. thx! i guess windex has also been doing the trick for me- just wanted to see if anyone had other recs.

[jabberwocky]

Semi hijack...just bought my first new chain, SRAM PC-48 with the power-links. SRAM's site says it comes pre-lubed. Is their lube decent, or should I clean their's off and apply my own (RockNRoll).I would definitely clean it off and apply your own lube. Every chain I've ever bought has come lubed with a thick grease that is more of a preservative. Ride with that grease on there and every speck of dirt that goes by the chain is gonna stick to it and the chain will be a dirt mess (not to mention that grease getting all over the drivetrain). Clean it off and apply a good chain lube.

[tsunayoshi]

That's what I figured, was hoping to get away with being a little lazy and just slapping it on.