Juicy Question

[kn0bby8]

Last night I installed my new Juicy 7's. I was replacing BB5's and was able to use a lot of the old hardware. I even used the old rotors. My front rotor is slightly bent. Should I replace it with the new rotor? How hard is it to true the new rotor without a torque wrench? Is it evem worth it to replace the rotor, it is only slightly bent and has never really casued a problem (just some very minor rubbing).

The 7's came pre bled. After I got everything installed I still am not able to get them 100 percent dialed in. Even "adjusted" the levers have to be pulled back all the way to almost touching the grips before the pads bite. Even than the pads will not lock up the wheels with weight on the bike. Do they need to be bled more?

[jabberwocky]

Make sure the pad adjustment knob is set all the way "out".

If that doesn't work, its a bleeding issue. Either there is air in the line, or the system is underfilled. If you want bleeding tips, let me know and I'll post some.

[kn0bby8]

Make sure the pad adjustment knob is set all the way "out".

If that doesn't work, its a bleeding issue. Either there is air in the line, or the system is underfilled. If you want bleeding tips, let me know and I'll post some.

the pad adjustments are all the way out. Please do post some bleeding tips! Can I go to pep boys or another auto parts store and get somthing to bleed them with? I don't want to pay someone or have to wait for shipping If I were to order the bleed kit.

If they end up being under filled what's the deal?

[tuba_transport]

I would guess the old rotor might have gotten greasy during the change. Did you happen to touch the surface during the swap?

[kn0bby8]

I would guess the old rotor might have gotten greasy during the change. Did you happen to touch the surface during the swap?

Def would cause the brakes not to bite but I was pretty carefull and sure this is not my problem.

[jabberwocky]

the pad adjustments are all the way out. Please do post some bleeding tips! Can I go to pep boys or another auto parts store and get somthing to bleed them with? I don't want to pay someone or have to wait for shipping If I were to order the bleed kit. With the Juicys, you should really use the Avid bleed kit. I'm sure there are local shops that carry it, or you can get one online. I have one (two, actually) that you could borrow if you need to get it done now.

Bleeding the Juicys is pretty easy. The bleed and the brakes themselves come with really good, easy to follow instructions. A shop guy gave me a really simple, fast way to bleed them (a little different from the standard bleed instructions). Basically:


Fill both syringes about half full of fluid. Make sure the hose pinch is closed. De-gas them (by pulling the plunger to create a vacuum, and holding it for a minute or two until all the air bubbles rise to the top).
Loosen the lever clamp and turn it 90 degrees so the bleed port is on top. Connect one of the syringes.
Connect the other syringe to the caliper.
Open the hose clamps on both syringes, and push fluid back forth through the system (by pushing with one and drawing a vacuum with the other). Finish by pushing most of the new fluid through, so one syringe is mostly empty.
Close the lever hose clamp. Draw a vacuum with the caliper syringe to pull any extra air bubbles out. Then close the hose clamp, remove the syringe and close the bleed port.
(optional). If the system is underfilled, I will put moderate pressure on the lever syringe while gently working the lever. This adds fluid to the system (every time you pull the lever the pistons move out, but instead of retracting the system gains fluid as you release the lever). I wouldn't do this until you're sure that more fluid is necessary.
Draw a vacuum to pull any residual air out, then close the clamp, remove the lever syringe and close the bleed port.

If they end up being under filled what's the deal?If there isn't enough fluid in the system, the pistons are basically starting too far from the rotor and won't push the pads all the way out. I put an adding-fluid step in the list above. Don't do that until you've tried a standard bleed though.

I would guess the old rotor might have gotten greasy during the change. Did you happen to touch the surface during the swap?The question is "are the pads putting enough pressure on the rotor?" If they are, its a pad contamination or rotor issue. If they aren't, its a bleed issue. The fact that he said the lever pulls all the way to the bars says its probably a bleed issue, but definitely double check that.

[PunkRock]

I came across this Avid Juicy 7 Bleed video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mg6NbIjmOM) not too long ago. For those of you who have worked often on Juicy 7s, how accurate would you consider it?

Not trying to deter from the original post, but the video may be of assistance.:)

[Pinoy Rider]

Last night I installed my new Juicy 7's. I was replacing BB5's and was able to use a lot of the old hardware. I even used the old rotors. My front rotor is slightly bent. Should I replace it with the new rotor? How hard is it to true the new rotor without a torque wrench? Is it evem worth it to replace the rotor, it is only slightly bent and has never really casued a problem (just some very minor rubbing).

As long as the rotor is not grooved from your previous pads you should be fine. I have adjusted my rotors with an adjustable wrench instead of buying the tool. Just don't be too aggressive with it and do it at the splines of the rotor.

[rizetech]

Adjustable wrench rotor truing is pretty easy. If you start gentle you'll figure out what it takes to get it right.
Buy an avid bleed kit, read and follow the instructions - they're straight-forward, and you need to the right tools (the avid kit) to do a good job. Above tips are right on.