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kn0bby8
January 3rd, 2009, 11:28 PM
I have been continplating a road bike lately...Unfortuatly I am not really sure how much use I would get out of it so to spend big money on one is not really on the top of my list. I am really just looking for sumpin I can put a few miles on before work (maybe around a two hour ride twice a week), and get a workout.

All thought there not your typical road bikes I have been looking at the Surly Steam roller and the specialized Langster. Would I be nuts to try and ride either of those a few miles (prob no more than 35) before work a few days a week?
Would I be better off with gears and a freewheel?

redclayrambler
January 4th, 2009, 09:36 AM
Hey,
It is hard to give an informed answer to your question without knowing a few things, like: How much money is too much? How much you already ride, Do you already ride single speed? Where are you going to be riding (hills?) Any centuries in your future?

I ride a road bike quite a bit when it's wet, also when time is short I can just ride out my door without having to drive somewhere to ride off road. I also commute to work on it occasionally.
Right now I have a injured knee and have been doing a lot of short easy rides (on the road bike) and having gears is a real plus for me right now.

Maybe check a bike like the Surly Cross Check. It has horizontal drop outs so it can be converted to single speed easier then a bike with vertical drop outs and they don't cost a ton of money comparatively speaking ;)

hope that helps a little.
Clay

snappster
January 4th, 2009, 09:43 AM
I got a used '88 Schwinn Prologue for $200. Lugged Tange Prestge steel. Old school Dura Ace 7 speed. In 1 1/2 seasons got maybe 4K miles. Probably got many more in it. The guy I got it from probably put way over 10K on it. Commute to work. Max speed is 48 mph so far in the hills, expect to hit 50+ in Vermont in May. Langsters are cool, I want one too. But I'd rather have my steel Schwinn for the versatility and speed of a decent road bike and to save money.
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/mhe_tibet17/09-20-07007.jpg

saxman
January 4th, 2009, 10:00 AM
Go for the road bike. It really will change you as a rider. On days when the trails are sloppy, you hop on the road bike. In addition, riding road makes you a better mountain biker...your cadence gets smoother, your cardiovascular improves.

I was in the same position you were in at the same point last year. I ended up buying a used Fuji Professional for a really good price. I ended up riding my road bike quite a bit, and I still enjoy it.

PunkRock
January 4th, 2009, 10:30 AM
Go for it, buy a road bike. It's always nice to be able to ride pavement when the trails are muddy or just to break up the mtb routine and vice versa. Since you're unsure how much use you'll get out it I would suggest buying a good condition, basic used one for a couple of reasons. First, used will cost less $. Second, if you decide road biking isn't for you it will be easier to sell the bike if it's a basic model with common equipment as opposed to some type of specialty, niche road bike. On the other hand, if you become pulled into road biking and start racking up more and more miles on it and decide to upgrade, which you probably will :rolleyes:, then you'll have the first one as a backup when the newer one is in the shop for repairs. My .02 cents.

tsunayoshi
January 4th, 2009, 10:32 AM
I just bought a Trek 1.2 last November for the same reasons...I've been on it at least 1x per week since I got it. When it gets a little warmer, I'll probably be on it 2-3x per week before work.

Saxman's comments are right on the money as far it making you a better rider.

allroy
January 4th, 2009, 10:40 AM
the Surly Crosscheck. Gears, single, fixed, touring, road, gravel, dirt, cross, centuries, you name it and the Crosscheck can do it however you choose to set it up.

I did a mixed ride the other day on my Crosscheck (fixed) through single track, gravel road and road probably 50-60 miles and it was one of my favorite rides. It makes road riding fun. ;)

Another good relatively inexpensive option aside from Surly is Masi (http://masibikes.com/) who makes some really nice stuff. I'm getting their speciale fixed to replace my broken speciale commuter (ran into a curb).

Gears, single, fixed is all personal, some people love it others hate it.
-J

tuba_transport
January 4th, 2009, 11:02 AM
I'ld go with the Steamroller myself. The Langster seems like a poser to me. Besides I have been considering a fully built Surly and want to try yours once you buy it. :D

allroy
January 4th, 2009, 12:01 PM
Just saw the boys at Urban Velo (http://urbanvelo.org/masi-speciale-cx/) had a nice write-up on the Masi CX bike.

This may be my next bike. Although I'd swap the white bits out for something less blingy.

http://masibikes.com/gallery/p.php?a=JSpUXmB6bnBta2ddf3BlJWh6cSt oZ2h3ais7Ni4qNyU+KjEjJjs%2FPTonMz8x MSc3Og%3D%3D

the Surly Crosscheck. Gears, single, fixed, touring, road, gravel, dirt, cross, centuries, you name it and the Crosscheck can do it however you choose to set it up.

I did a mixed ride the other day on my Crosscheck (fixed) through single track, gravel road and road probably 50-60 miles and it was one of my favorite rides. It makes road riding fun. ;)

Another good relatively inexpensive option aside from Surly is Masi (http://masibikes.com/) who makes some really nice stuff. I'm getting their speciale fixed to replace my broken speciale commuter (ran into a curb).

Gears, single, fixed is all personal, some people love it others hate it.
-J

allencb
January 4th, 2009, 12:56 PM
Would I be nuts to try and ride either of those a few miles (prob no more than 35) before work a few days a week?
Would I be better off with gears and a freewheel?

Personally, I really like a fixed gear for short (less than 50 miles) rides in this area.

You're still in Manassas, right? A1 Cycles has several fixed gears in stock and one of the guys that work there rides one fairly often I think. If you can ride a 58cm frame, you're welcome to try mine out. I can bring it to a Wakefield night ride or meet you somewhere in Manassas.

Chris

kn0bby8
January 4th, 2009, 04:11 PM
Personally, I really like a fixed gear for short (less than 50 miles) rides in this area.

You're still in Manassas, right? A1 Cycles has several fixed gears in stock and one of the guys that work there rides one fairly often I think. If you can ride a 58cm frame, you're welcome to try mine out. I can bring it to a Wakefield night ride or meet you somewhere in Manassas.

Chris

I have been desperatly trying to stay away from A1 cause I know they have a few in stock...If I go to look I don't have the will/brain power not to buy...As far as riding a 58cm, I have learned a thing or two about sizes and fitment of MountainBikes from the very knowledgeable Tuba, but know nothing about road bike sizes anything to look at? for good reference?

jabberwocky
January 4th, 2009, 04:25 PM
The nice thing about road bikes is that even midrange components are very long-lived and perform quite well.. 105-level stuff (roughly equivalent to deore or X7) can be had on sub-$1000 bikes without much difficulty, and will easily last years.

As for SS/fixed, I commute almost exclusively on fixed bikes (I have 2) but do keep a geared cross bike for winter commuting and longer road rides. I really enjoy riding fixed, but you should try it out if you can before making it your only road bike. Around here, its pretty much rideable everywhere. The advantages of buying a fixie is that your money goes a long way, either buying complete or building yourself.

As far as riding a 58cm, I have learned a thing or two about sizes and fitment of MountainBikes from the very knowledgeable Tuba, but know nothing about road bike sizes anything to look at? for good reference?How tall are you, and what size (top tube) mtb do you usually ride? I have 2 smaller fixies you could try if you are short (a 50cm and a 52cm).

kn0bby8
January 4th, 2009, 04:44 PM
The nice thing about road bikes is that even midrange components are very long-lived and perform quite well.. 105-level stuff (roughly equivalent to deore or X7) can be had on sub-$1000 bikes without much difficulty, and will easily last years.

As for SS/fixed, I commute almost exclusively on fixed bikes (I have 2) but do keep a geared cross bike for winter commuting and longer road rides. I really enjoy riding fixed, but you should try it out if you can before making it your only road bike. Around here, its pretty much rideable everywhere. The advantages of buying a fixie is that your money goes a long way, either buying complete or building yourself.

How tall are you, and what size (top tube) mtb do you usually ride? I have 2 smaller fixies you could try if you are short (a 50cm and a 52cm).

I'm 5"10 and from what I found on the internet the top tube length of my current mtb is 22.5

allencb
January 4th, 2009, 05:09 PM
I'm 5"10 and from what I found on the internet the top tube length of my current mtb is 22.5

You could probably get by on my fixie then. I'm 5'10" as well. My geared road bike is a 56cm (long top tube for a 56cm though) and my fixie is a 58cm (same top tube as the geared road bike). Both are set up with short stems since I like a more upright position.

You're welcome to try them both, if nothing else, it'll give you a feel for the differences between the two styles. The geared bike is a touring bike, so it won't "feel" as fast as a geared race bike though.

Jabs is right about riding a fixed gear in this area. I haven't hit a hill yet I couldn't climb with 46x16 gearing (I know they're out there, just haven't bumped into them yet).

Chris

kn0bby8
January 4th, 2009, 05:21 PM
You could probably get by on my fixie then. I'm 5'10" as well. My geared road bike is a 56cm (long top tube for a 56cm though) and my fixie is a 58cm (same top tube as the geared road bike). Both are set up with short stems since I like a more upright position.

You're welcome to try them both, if nothing else, it'll give you a feel for the differences between the two styles. The geared bike is a touring bike, so it won't "feel" as fast as a geared race bike though.

Jabs is right about riding a fixed gear in this area. I haven't hit a hill yet I couldn't climb with 46x16 gearing (I know they're out there, just haven't bumped into them yet).

Chris

I appreciate the offer...right now I have to fight the urge a while longer and riding one of your bikes would only make me go out and by one...I may take you up on your offer in a few weeks.

As for now if I can stay away from the bike shop I will just do some more browsing and research.

As far as body position goes, on a mountainbike you want close to a 90 degree where your arms meet yourtorsoe (if that makes any sence) is it the same on a road bike? Should a top tube length similar to my mtb be pretty good? Where do 56 cm 58 cm acutally come from?

allencb
January 4th, 2009, 05:43 PM
56cm or 58cm refers to the length of the seat tube from the center of the bottom bracket to the center of the TT in centimeters.

Generally, the top tube on a road bike will be a bit shorter, but you'll have a longer, flatter stem and the bars will drop below the stem as well as extend beyond the stem (while riding on the brake hoods), so the effective riding position will be longer and lower. My personal preferences and the biomechanics of my lower back mean I have a more upright position on both of my bikes. It might decrease my efficiency or speed, but it also means I'm able to ride longer distances without pain. Having completed centuries on both bikes, I think I have the fit dialed in for my needs. ;)

No rush on the test ride. When you're ready, we can take both bikes out for a ride down the PW Parkway bike path and swap bikes back and forth so you can try them side by side. I have SPD clipless pedals on one and Look pedals on the other, but I have a set of flats with toe clips and a spare set of SPDs, so we can set something up for you.

Chris

PunkRock
January 4th, 2009, 06:53 PM
Take a look at www.roadbikereview.com (http://www.roadbikereview.com/reviewscrx.aspx) for alot of good info. It should help you in choosing the right bike, components, etc.

tuba_transport
January 4th, 2009, 07:53 PM
I'm 5'10" as well. My geared road bike is a 56cm

I'm 5'10.5" and ride a 56cm road bike. When I tried road bikes the 54cm felt obviously too small. The 56cm felt pretty close to ideal. the 58cm felt just a hair too big. So maybe I am a 57cm. :rolleyes:

When I got my road bike I had not ever ridden a real one before. I had a crappy Huffy 10 speed in high school, but that was as close as I had gotten.

When I rode a few and found one I really liked the road feel of I was coming from a mountain bike background so the whole thing felt awkward. I got fit and asked Bike Lane to swap out the 110mm stem for a 90mm cause I felt too stretched out. I also had the stem at the highest point on the steerer tube. I still felt hunched over. I also had a little more gut at the time and that got in the way of leaning over into a more aerodynamic tuck.

I slowly kept lowering the stem until it is now all the way down to the headset. I also have swapped back to a 110mm stem. I still need to find a handlebar which feels right. My reach is about the same. When I went back to the longer stem I moved the hoods back on the bar to keep the same reach.

My point is that my experience was that what might be a comfortable road fit now might change as you get used to a road bike. So the stem length and spacers might change.

nocro
January 4th, 2009, 08:10 PM
As far as body position goes, on a mountainbike you want close to a 90 degree where your arms meet yourtorsoe (if that makes any sence) is it the same on a road bike? Should a top tube length similar to my mtb be pretty good? Where do 56 cm 58 cm acutally come from?


For fit on the road bike, I heard that the handlebar should obscure the front hub when you're in the drops. YMMV, but if you want a quick and dirty way to tell if the torso position is about right, that's it.


-- threadjack --
Speaking of quick and dirty... I like rules of thumb. Anyone have any good ones?

I like the way to measure the waist of pants in the thrift store. Fold the waist over, and wrap the waist around your neck. It should be "just right". If you don't believe that is true, try it with some of your own pants.

sourceofdenial
January 5th, 2009, 01:20 PM
I would go with a road or cross bike over a fixed gear, no question. There is a ton of great road riding in the area, especially in the farther out portion of Montgomery County and out around/past Leesburg. You can easily make 20,30,40,60mile rides that are all dirt roads too.

Cross bike would be nice if you want to focus just on those kind of rides, and you can run 50/34 rings instead of the closer 38/46 or whatever that comes stock with most. Or just a regular road bike will service you well.

A fixed gear is nice, but aren't nearly as fun on a fast group ride. Plus long climbs are only fun from the 'oh look at me I'm on a fixed gear I'm a glutton for punishment' perspective.

jabberwocky
January 5th, 2009, 01:47 PM
It does depend on what sorts of riding you are intending on doing. If your plans include hanging on road rides with real roadies, you definitely should look at a geared road bike.

The OP, however, said he wants something for shorter rides to get a workout on (I'm assuming riding by himself). A fixie is absolutely great for that purpose. They are cheaper (by a wide margin) than a comparable road bike, incredibly simple to maintain and on a shorter ride you get a better workout. This area, by and large, isn't hilly enough for a fixie to be very limiting.

allencb
January 5th, 2009, 01:49 PM
on a shorter ride you get a better workout. This area, by and large, isn't hilly enough for a fixie to be very limiting.

This is exactly why I like my fixie. I can go for a short ride and get a good workout.

Chris

CRAIG2
January 5th, 2009, 02:08 PM
Buy a fixie. They're in - again. Seriously. Expensive bikes are out. Sorry to all you Ti blinglespeeders with your $500 handlebars. You're so last year. So are all you carbon fiber weight weenies.

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-srv/artsandliving/features/2008/year-in-review/the_list_2009.html

Sorry to be the bearer of such bad news!

C.

eloach
January 5th, 2009, 04:21 PM
I would skip the fixie only approach. You should at least get a rear wheel you can flip around. In addition, I would not recommend the Langster or any other bike with CRAP wheels on it. Nothing quite like blowing spokes on a fixie.

I have a few road bikes and a Raleigh One-Way SS/Fixie road bike. I upgraded the wheelset on the Raleigh right away, as the crap wheels on it would not stay true at all. The problem you will run into with a SS/Fixie is that if you want to join a road ride (MORE or other) you will be at a significant disadvantage. The One-Way is setup 42:16 and I can hang at about 20 MPH, but no faster for very long and even at 20 MPH I am spinning quickly enough to be using a good bit more breath than I would on a road bike at the same speed. In addition, if you encounter some long, grueling climbs, you will build up a lot more lactic acid in your legs then you would on a geared bike.

I use the One-Way for commuting for simplicity and fun, but if you don't already have a regular road bike, I would get that first.

The Surly Crosscheck is probably one of the most versatile bike made. It's not "light", but it can also take a 45 tire in the rear and the frame will not break if you ride ST on it.

pirate
January 5th, 2009, 04:30 PM
This area, by and large, isn't hilly enough for a fixie to be very limiting.

When you guys all say "this area," are you talking about just Northern Virginia? I've found plenty of hills around where I live that I can barely make on my geared bike. (of course, I'm fat and not very strong)

eloach
January 5th, 2009, 04:32 PM
They are cheaper (by a wide margin) than a comparable road bike

I don't think I have seen road bikes with as bad of wheels at the price point as you find on fixies. Also, you are getting less, so WHY oh WHY the crap wheelsets? If I am not paying for all those components, please but a half decent wheelset on the bike.

If you want to go fixie, I would recommend something like the Surly frame and then go and buy MAVIC Open Sport rims laced to Surly track hubs. Quality Wheelhouse makes such a wheelset and any local shop the uses QBP can order both the Surly frame and the wheels for you.

I didn't find fixie to be all that much more of a WO than SS. One big reason was that I found my self spinning significantly slower on fixie than on the freewheel for safety sake. Now, I am not as experienced on fixie as Chris or others, but it's something to think about. Also, fixie puts a different type of stress on the knees than freewheel (due to breaking mostly). I personally have not run into problems from it, but I know a few people who had knee problems that felt it aggravated the issue.

jabberwocky
January 5th, 2009, 04:53 PM
In addition, I would not recommend the Langster or any other bike with CRAP wheels on it. Nothing quite like blowing spokes on a fixie.
I don't think I have seen road bikes with as bad of wheels at the price point as you find on fixies. Also, you are getting less, so WHY oh WHY the crap wheelsets? If I am not paying for all those components, please but a half decent wheelset on the bike.Very few off the shelf fixies have stellar wheelsets on them (for that matter, neither do road bikes in the same price range). Ride the stock wheels until they start to go, then replace them with something like IROs fixie wheelset (200 bucks, excellent quality). I'd bet that you'll get a few years out of the stock wheels on the Langster unless you are unusually abusive towards them. If they are having issues within the first few months, thats probably indicative of a defective wheel and should be covered under warranty.

I didn't find fixie to be all that much more of a WO than SS. One big reason was that I found my self spinning significantly slower on fixie than on the freewheel for safety sake. Now, I am not as experienced on fixie as Chris or others, but it's something to think about. Also, fixie puts a different type of stress on the knees than freewheel (due to breaking mostly). I personally have not run into problems from it, but I know a few people who had knee problems that felt it aggravated the issue.I would recommend running at least a front brake on any fixie you intend to ride on the road (and most off-the-shelf fixies come with two brakes and a flip flop hub). I rarely do any hard braking with my legs (although I'll regulate speed with them). Some mornings I brake exclusively with my front brake and not use my legs for anything other than propulsion. Relying solely on your legs for braking is kinda dangerous, in my opinion.

Its definitely more of a workout, although how much depends on your route. My heart rate is consistently higher riding the fixie on my commute (fixed route, measured with my Edge 305). And my commute is relatively flat. You cannot get lazy and coast on the fixie, and it takes more effort to accelerate and climb.

sourceofdenial
January 5th, 2009, 04:55 PM
When you guys all say "this area," are you talking about just Northern Virginia? I've found plenty of hills around where I live that I can barely make on my geared bike. (of course, I'm fat and not very strong)

I can only assume "this area" is the W&OD or the Tidal Basin, because there are plenty of big hills in Fairfax, Arlington, Montgomery, etc.

jabberwocky
January 5th, 2009, 04:56 PM
When you guys all say "this area," are you talking about just Northern Virginia? I've found plenty of hills around where I live that I can barely make on my geared bike. (of course, I'm fat and not very strong)I meant NOVA in general. Of course, you can find some monster hills if you look, but by and large a fixie is easy to get around on.

FWIW, I've climbed Hunters Station and 41st St N (across from the Chain bridge) on my fixie with 44-16 gearing. Its possible, but its a lot of work and you'll want to curl up and die when you get to the top. :p

allencb
January 5th, 2009, 05:00 PM
Also, fixie puts a different type of stress on the knees than freewheel (due to breaking mostly). I personally have not run into problems from it, but I know a few people who had knee problems that felt it aggravated the issue.

My knees bother me at times, but not due to my fixie. That said, I have a front brake on mine, so I'm not relying on my legs to bring me to a stop (I use backpedaling to make minor speed adjustments though).

I run a 46x16 and haven't had any serious problems riding around Manassas, SW Va, or some of the PPTC rides.

Chris

kn0bby8
January 8th, 2009, 03:25 PM
Well I couldn't sleep all week with the thought of a new bike on my mind, so I had to go to a few shops and see what they had. I went to A1 in Manassas and BSed with the guy behind the counter for a while. They offered the Langster (only one they had in my size had a flat bar) and the Steamroller (wich would have to be ordered). I was able to ride the langster and get somewhat of a feel for the bike. Next stop Spokes in Vienna. They had a few langsters (none in my size) and a (steamroller not in my size either). Off to the Bike Lane. They offered a Salsa (not fixed gear) a Gary Fisher and the Steam Roller none of wich they had in the shop. After talking with 2 guys there I decided that the Steam Roller was my best option. It's on order...Hopefully I will be able to throw a leg over it early next week. If it is comfortable Ill take her home.

tuba_transport
January 8th, 2009, 03:34 PM
After talking with 2 guys there I decided that the Steam Roller was my best option. It's on order...Hopefully I will be able to throw a leg over it early next week. If it is comfortable Ill take her home.

What size did you get? Which shop? If it happens to be a 56cm, could I try it out some time? I assume you ordered the full bike and not just the frame.

allencb
January 8th, 2009, 03:40 PM
They offered the Langster (only one they had in my size had a flat bar)

The green Seattle model at the front of the store? That's such a sweet bike.

Chris

Dirt
January 8th, 2009, 03:41 PM
Good choice. I sure like mine. The thing is tough as nails. It is a little heavy too, but I've found it is pretty darn comfy.

I bought mine from a friend and built it up with stuff I had laying around the shop. It has almost 2000 miles on it and has served me well.

Enjoy!

Pete

kn0bby8
January 8th, 2009, 05:38 PM
The green Seattle model at the front of the store? That's such a sweet bike.
Chris

I am not sure what model I tried...It had flat bars and was black and purple...The only one they had in my size.

You mentioned before that you ride on the Prince William Parkway...I live in an apartment complex on Sudley Manor Dr, whats the best route for me to take to get to the paved bike paths along the Pkwy. Over by my road there are no paved paths...Is it Kosher to ride in the shoulder? I'm gonna be a newb to road riding...I don't know the ettikect (Def spelled wrong). Can you reccomend a good loop in our neck of the woods that I am not gonna kill my self on getting used to fixed gear?



What size did you get? Which shop? If it happens to be a 56cm, could I try it out some time? I assume you ordered the full bike and not just the frame.

I got a 56...The Bike Lane in Reston...Your more than welcome to try it...Full Bike.

allencb
January 8th, 2009, 05:50 PM
You mentioned before that you ride on the Prince William Parkway...I live in an apartment complex on Sudley Manor Dr, whats the best route for me to take to get to the paved bike paths along the Pkwy. Over by my road there are no paved paths...Is it Kosher to ride in the shoulder? I'm gonna be a newb to road riding...I don't know the ettikect (Def spelled wrong). Can you reccomend a good loop in our neck of the woods that I am not gonna kill my self on getting used to fixed gear?


I'm not terribly sure what the best route would be. Maybe take Sudley Manor Ashton, then Ashton to Rixlew (near the High School), then turn right onto Wellington and ride that till you hit Liberia. The other side of that intersection is where the PW Parkway starts. I've ridden from Bull Run Shopping Center to my 'hood on Wellington. Traffic is a bit heavy at times but there's enough space as long as you're not weaving around like a drunk. There are some sidewalks, but you'll be on the street with traffic on parts of Rixlew and Wellington. Once you get to Jeannie Dean on Wellington, you have bike paths and sidewalk all the way to the PW Pkwy.

Another ride I really like is the backroads to Quantico. It might be a bit tough for a new roadie on a fixed gear. Some of the hills are a tad steep, though not very long (quarter mile at worst).

When you get it, let me know and we'll take a spin around the area.

Chris

tuba_transport
January 8th, 2009, 06:06 PM
Over by my road there are no paved paths...Is it Kosher to ride in the shoulder? I'm gonna be a newb to road riding.
...
I got a 56...The Bike Lane in Reston...Your more than welcome to try it...Full Bike.

The road is yours. I usually ride just to the left of the righthand road paint. To the right of that pain line invites flats due to all the glass and sharp rocks. The paint itself can be slippery. Just hug the left side of the line. Cars are supposed to pass you with at least 3 feet distance. You'll learn to ride a perfectly straight line real fast or get squashed. :thumbsup:

The best routes are away from high traffic roads PPTC (http://www.bikepptc.org) has some great cue sheets to get you started in seeking out fun routes.

BTW, I soooooooooooo want to try out that fixie after you get your first scratch taken care of.

tsunayoshi
January 8th, 2009, 06:07 PM
You can try going to mapmyride.com and look for routes in Manassas/Prince William County. I found a nice couple of routes for my area (Lake Ridge/Woodbridge) that use the MUTs along PWCP and 234 from that site.

walsh
January 8th, 2009, 06:07 PM
What size did you get? Which shop? If it happens to be a 56cm, could I try it out some time? I assume you ordered the full bike and not just the frame.

Cut that out now. You're a good enough wrench that you ought be to be converting an old beater for a fixie, not buying a brand-new beater.

Don't do anything rash.

allencb
January 8th, 2009, 06:12 PM
To the right of that pain line

Typo? :D

Chris

tuba_transport
January 8th, 2009, 06:13 PM
Cut that out now. You're a good enough wrench that you ought be to be converting an old beater for a fixie, not buying a brand-new beater.

Don't do anything rash.

The fully built bike is list price of $720 for the Steamroller. I started to price out parts and the frame and I got over that number way too fast. I have an old steel Schwinn MTB but am not sure how solid the 1992 steel frame is. It has rust bubbles under the paint and the fork would need replacing.

tuba_transport
January 8th, 2009, 06:14 PM
Typo? :D

Chris

Freudian..

allencb
January 8th, 2009, 06:16 PM
The fully built bike is list price of $720 for the Steamroller. I started to price out parts and the frame and I got over that number way too fast. I have an old steel Schwinn MTB but am not sure how solid the 1992 steel frame is. It has rust bubbles under the paint.

It would be tough to build a decent fixie for much less than the Steamroller. I brought mine in for about $550, but I got some fantastic deals (frame/fork for $150, hubs for $65, etc).

Chris

tuba_transport
January 8th, 2009, 06:18 PM
It would be tough to build a decent fixie for much less than the Steamroller. I brought mine in for about $550, but I got some fantastic deals (frame/fork for $150, hubs for $65, etc).

Chris
The one thing I really want on a fixie is a flip flop hub for SS/fixie mode. That is one of my main sticking points in trying to decide on the Steamroller.

walsh
January 8th, 2009, 06:19 PM
The fully built bike is list price of $720 for the Steamroller. I started to price out parts and the frame and I got over that number way too fast. I have an old steel Schwinn MTB but am not sure how solid the 1992 steel frame is. It has rust bubbles under the paint.

Hmmm . . . that is something to chew on, particularly considering that Surly will probably spec wheels that don't break.

When I first converted the Raleigh, my costs were:

Frame: free, with broken spoke
Race Face BB: in parts box
Sugino touring crank: in parts box
1/8" Dura-Ace cog: $40 at City Bikes
1/8" KMC z-chain: $9, see above
Seca 27x1 1/4" touring tires: $28/pair at REI

I finally needed new bars three years later.

tuba_transport
January 8th, 2009, 06:25 PM
Hmmm . . . that is something to chew on, particularly considering that Surly will probably spec wheels that don't break.

When I first converted the Raleigh, my costs were:

Frame: free, with broken spoke
Race Face BB: in parts box
Sugino touring crank: in parts box
1/8" Dura-Ace cog: $40 at City Bikes
1/8" KMC z-chain: $9, see above
Seca 27x1 1/4" touring tires: $28/pair at REI

I finally needed new bars three years later.

I would need the frame at $400+. I have the wheels which came on my road bike, but need the conversion kit to change the Shimano freehub out to fixie. Then I still need a headset, bars, front brake w/lever, bar tape, seatpost w/clamp, and a stem of the correct size. I have cranks but the bottom bracket is shot. I also have a saddle I could use.

So a full bike is probably better for me.

allencb
January 8th, 2009, 06:26 PM
The one thing I really want on a fixie is a flip flop hub for SS/fixie mode. That is one of my main sticking points in trying to decide on the Steamroller.

The hub isn't a flip/flop? I know it doesn't have a rear brake, which isn't cool if you're running a freewheel.

The hub on mine is a flip/flop, and I thought I might want a lower geared freewheel, but I've found I didn't. The only time I had anything on that side was when I was trying out a different cog.

Chris

allencb
January 8th, 2009, 06:31 PM
I would need the frame at $400+. I have the wheels which came on my road bike, but need the conversion kit to change the Shimano freehub out to fixie. Then I still need a headset, bars, front brake w/lever, bar tape, seatpost w/clamp, and a stem of the correct size. I have cranks but the bottom bracket is shot. I also have a saddle I could use.

So a full bike is probably better for me.

If you know what size you need, you can get the frame pretty cheap online. The converter for the Shimano freehub will cost almost as much as a decent wheel (decent being Formula and CXP-22). Universal Cycles offers free shipping on Surly frames and their VIP15 (15% off) coupon will the price down to $357.

Chris

tuba_transport
January 8th, 2009, 06:31 PM
The hub isn't a flip/flop? I know it doesn't have a rear brake, which isn't cool if you're running a freewheel.

The hub on mine is a flip/flop, and I thought I might want a lower geared freewheel, but I've found I didn't. The only time I had anything on that side was when I was trying out a different cog.

Chris

The Surly website says this
Cog
Surly fixed gear 3/32" 19tooth, Surly lockring included (f/w not included)

Hubs
32hole, 120mm OLD fixed/free. Black

I guess this means it IS flip flop? What is that about freewheel not included?

tuba_transport
January 8th, 2009, 06:33 PM
If you know what size you need, you can get the frame pretty cheap online. The converter for the Shimano freehub will cost almost as much as a decent wheel (decent being Formula and CXP-22). Universal Cycles offers free shipping on Surly frames and their VIP15 (15% off) coupon will the price down to $357.

Chris

I might need to price this out again. I was pricing through Speedgoat. I also saw that Bike Lane is having a sale right now. Not sure if that includes special order stuff.

allencb
January 8th, 2009, 06:33 PM
It comes with the fixed cog, but no freewheel. You can get a Shimano freewheel for about $20 or a White Industries model for a lot more. I run the WI offroad, but a Shimano will be fine for the street.

You'll need to add a rear brake IMO. With a fixie, you can use backpressure to compensate for the lack of a rear brake, but you don't have that with a FW.

Chris

jabberwocky
January 8th, 2009, 06:44 PM
As Chris noted, it has threading for a freewheel, but none actually included. They are cheap to get though. I have an 18t Shimano you can have if you really want it. There are a bajillion bmx freewheels out there that can be used.

Also note that you can probably put a freewheel on the fixed side if you want. You'll have less threads engaged (since part of the hub is smaller and reverse threaded for the lockring) but plenty of people do that without issues. The actual cog threading is the same.

You would want to add a rear brake if you run singlespeed. It looks like it has drop bars with a cross lever on the flat section for the front brake. You'd just need to add another cross lever (or buy some hooded levers) and add a rear brake.

Dirt
January 8th, 2009, 06:52 PM
I've got a rear brake that you can use too. Tektro ... new in the box. I used the front on my Steamroller and have no use for the back... at least now that my TT Drafting simulator was banned by the department of Homeland Security. ;) Still need to find a way to hook a whoopie cushion up to the rear brake lever.

jabberwocky
January 8th, 2009, 06:57 PM
I have some hooded brake levers you can have, too. Shimano, as I remember (they came on my Fillmore).

I... at least now that my TT Drafting simulator was banned by the department of Homeland Security. ;) Awww... They took away your squirtgun? I never even got to see it. :(

tuba_transport
January 8th, 2009, 07:05 PM
my TT Drafting simulator was banned by the department of Homeland Security. ;) Still need to find a way to hook a whoopie cushion up to the rear brake lever.

either one of those would be an accurate TT Drafting simulator

Dirt
January 8th, 2009, 07:05 PM
Awww... They took away your squirtgun? I never even got to see it. :(
It didn't make it into the building the first time. It was pronounced a danger to homeland security and removed from my bicycle. I was devistated. The security guy's daughter enjoyed it though.

jabberwocky
January 8th, 2009, 07:19 PM
It was pronounced a danger to homeland security and removed from my bicycle.You should have told them you only squirt terrorists with it. ;)

kn0bby8
January 8th, 2009, 09:11 PM
I might need to price this out again. I was pricing through Speedgoat. I also saw that Bike Lane is having a sale right now. Not sure if that includes special order stuff.

As far as I know the hub is not flip flop with the bike I have on order. All the langsters I looked at were flip flops. I didn't purchase yet (only left a deposit) but I am pretty sure the bike is 720. Than TBL is offering what equates to 20% in Bike Lane bucks. Pay for it on my Trek card and no interest for 6 months.

Spokes in Vienna just left me a message that they just recieved a 56 steamroller and it was assembled and ready to ride...If I remember correctly it was only 700 there.

tuba_transport
January 8th, 2009, 09:14 PM
Spokes in Vienna just left me a message that they just recieved a 56 steamroller and it was assembled and ready to ride...If I remember correctly it was only 700 there.

I know where I'll be tomorrow around noon.

allencb
January 8th, 2009, 10:20 PM
Tuba,

I remembered this while on the ride...

If you're going to convert an existing road wheel, the spacing on that wheel is 130mm while a track frame (steamroller) is 120mm.

Chris

kn0bby8
January 10th, 2009, 01:36 PM
Picked up my new Steamroller this morning and was able to put a quick 8 miles on it before I head out the door to work. Def takes a little getting used to but I am in love already...I'll probably try to put some miles on it tommorow aftenoon when I get out of work.

About how many miles should I go before I have to worry about the spoke tension? I assume after the wheels break in a bit they will have to be retensioned.

allencb
January 10th, 2009, 04:48 PM
Depends on the wheel. I've gone several hundred on new wheels before retentioning, others need it within a hundred.

If it's not raining and you want to ride locally, send me an email. I need to get out and put a few miles in as well.

Chris