Rockshox SID are they any good

[DKEG]

Does anyone have an opinion or experience with The rockshox SID fork. I am looking to buy a mid priced fork and like the weight of the fork. But I would like to hear from someone who has or had one. Thanks David

[locarno]

i had a SID for awhile and i didn't like it at all. its definitely light, but it doesn't track very well on the rough stuff and it flexes quite a bit. if you're going to be racing on groomed singletrack, then it might be a good choice. if you're looking for a good all rounder, i'd look elsewhere. the next fork that i ran after the SID was a Psylo and it was like night and day.

[TrailVictim]

I agree with locarno. My SID had way to much flex and the travel was not plush at all.
I ran a Manitou Black Comp I bought from Greenfish Sports before getting the Fox I have now and although it's not a nice as my Fox, the price made for a killer deal.

They have a nice selection of forks at some sweet prices.

http://www.greenfishsports.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=266

Customer service is top notch.(No, I don't work for them!)

For what you would pay for a SID, you could get a Fox Float RL for about the same cost if you do some searching.

[bunky]

I have the SID Race. It's pretty flexible and I am a bit apprehensive about its durability. I got mine from Jenson for $380, adding to my concern over its durability!

Really depends on what/ how you want to ride. If you will be racing or typically like to ride AFAP over moderate terrain, it is good. If you don't mind mellow climbs and then like to chuck off every rock coming down the Shed, probably not for you. You could ride the Shed and other big stuff, but not with the same confidence and certainly without the same speed/ control/ fun!

I'd say the SID is for light hardtails only. I built up my Gunnar using it and, it is pretty light. That's what a 2.87 lb. fork will do for you.

By comparison, my Marzocchi MX Comp w/ eta (105 mm)on my full suspension is nearly double the weight, but that thing is (1) cheaper (2) sweet cushy ride with (3) no flex at all.

So, depends on how much of a weight weenie you are and how heavy the terrain is where you ride.

Bunky

[locarno]

word, fox floats are nice and they don't really weigh that much more than the SID. you can also get them without the V-brake mounts which is nice if you run disc brakes, i don't think the SIDs have that option.

[ezraw]

Though I've never had any trouble with it riding at places like Gambrill or the 'Shed, it's definately NOT plush. That said, you can still bomb down the downhills with confidence. You'll just feel it a little more, that's all.

Mine is a 2001, so I don't know how they are now, but I doubt I'd get one again unless they've improved it significantly. Not because of any specific problems, but other stuff I've ridden just seems a lot ... friendlier ... more adjustable.

Never noticed any problem with in terms of flex, but I'm pretty light, so I might not be the best one to judge.

[chunk]

i agree with what everyone else has said about SID's. i had a sid xc a few years back. the only thing i can add is that they're better suited to smaller riders who use rim brakes. if you're big, like me, the difference between a sid and any of the zoke's or fox forks is night and day.

[drevil]

Does anyone have an opinion or experience with The rockshox SID fork.


I own one. I bought it in 2001. It wants to go on my bike. I tell it, "Shut up! You've been very bad. You're too flexy. You don't track well. You always let the brakes rub the rims. When Daddy turns you want to keep going straight. You made Daddy crash so many times that he hates you now!"

I lock it in the dark basement. It weeps...oil.

[bunky]

Ricky,

Say, hypothetically, someone wanted to put a straightfork on his, say, hypothetical Gunnar Rockhound, what would you say, just hypothetically?

[drevil]

Ricky,

Say, hypothetically, someone wanted to put a straightfork on his, say, hypothetical Gunnar Rockhound, what would you say, just hypothetically?

Rigid forks work for me. I definitely can't blast downhill as quickly, but I prefer technical flat sections and uphills when unsprung. The things I like most is that the wheel always goes where you expect it to, plus no bobbing.

Coupled with squishy grips and fatter tire you'll get a modicum of suspension. Be prepared to have your hands sting on the first few rides. It definitely takes a different technique to make the most of a rigid fork. Pick your lines better and ride more "light" and you should be fine.

[bunky]

And what are good companies that manufacture these "rigid" forks, of which you speak.

[mscard]

If you're not overly hard on your equipment I highly recommend the Spicer Ti fork (www.spicercycles.com). It has just enough give to making riding rigid as cushy as it can be. I have had one on my Aluminum SS for about a year now and when combined with the carbon Pave' post I have on it, the thing is down right plush! If you can't tell, I'm very happy with it.

That said, if you're 200+ lbs and like to get big air, I'd look elsewhere.

IF makes a very nice one as you'd expect from them. Pace makes a sweet carbon fork, but its hard to get in the U.S. Kelly's seem to be very popular as well and are a bit less expensive than the Spicer of IF.

On the flip side of the cost spectrum, I used to use a Kona P-2, which was much more basic but with a good Cost-Weight ratio.

Certainly not a comprehensive list, but just a start.

Mike

[drevil]

Big Mike's got you going in the right direction. If you want a more comprehensive list, check out the SS FAQ on MTBR: http://www.mtbr.com/faq/ssfaq.shtml#ssMfgrsForks

I've used a Tange, Ritchey, Surly 1x1, Kona P2, Planet X Knifen, and a Kelly. Kelly is my favorite. It rides smooth, accepts monster tires, and is strong.

Pricing is all over the place for rigid forks. The first five that I mentioned above are ~$50. The Kelly is ~$180. The Vicious and Spicer forks are over $200. The Pace, Independent Fabrications, and Sycip are over $300.

You have to also consider sizing the fork properly. They come in different axle to crown lengths. Get the size that is most appropriate for your frame.

[bunky]

You have to also consider sizing the fork properly. They come in different axle to crown lengths. Get the size that is most appropriate for your frame.

That's wierd since squishy forks come in one size fits all. How does one decide what length--i.e. what are the considerations? I would imagine tire clearance is a big factor, no? Say you had a 16 inch gunnar frame and rode 2.1 Panaracer Fire XC Pros or Velociraptors--what size do you think, or do you need to size it up by eye???

Bunk

[riderx]

That's wierd since squishy forks come in one size fits all. How does one decide what length--i.e. what are the considerations? I would imagine tire clearance is a big factor, no? Say you had a 16 inch gunnar frame and rode 2.1 Panaracer Fire XC Pros or Velociraptors--what size do you think, or do you need to size it up by eye???

BunkActually, it's the different size squishy forks that the frames are built around that makes you need to check these measurements. An XC frame built around an 80mm fork is going to handle weird if you stick a big ol' 130mm fork on it. So, you need to know approx. what your frame is built for (or what fork handles well on it) and get the appropriate rigid fork. As far as tire width, most rigid forks will handle pretty fat meat, 2.3 - 2.4 should be no problem on the average rigid fork.

[CountZero]

There is only one true fork, and it is the Maverick.

Bunky, get an SC32 for the Gunnar.

[TrailVictim]

Does anyone know of a stateside company that makes rigid carbon forks for a SS?

[dmofot]

I definitely can't blast downhill as quickly, but I prefer technical flat sections and uphills when unsprung.

Although what might be true for Ricky, might not be true for you. I would venture to say that just because you have a rigid fork doesn't automatically mean you can't go as fast (or faster) on the downhills when using a shock. A lot of it getting used to the new style of riding and the other part is how fast your willing to let yourself go...

DT

[joep]

A lot of it getting used to the new style of riding and the other part is how fast your willing to let yourself go...
DT

Yup, fear is a big limiter. Your bike will go over stuff better that you think it will. The trick is finding that limit without getting too ouchy. The other thing is that your ability to see straight is somewhat reduced by a rigid fork. I've been down stuff so rocky that everything looked like a big blur. When this happens you just have to rely on sound and smell to get you through.

[drevil]

... rely on sound and smell to get you through.

Don't forget taste!

[mscard]

I second JoeP's post. The most unexpected development I've found while riding a rigid is that big rocks on down hills are not much harder than with a squishy fork, but the little rocks and roots will shake you and blind you to death.

[joep]

Don't forget taste!

Yes, I forgot to mention the taste of blood dripping off your teeth after the endo...

[bunky]

Yes, I forgot to mention the taste of blood dripping off your teeth after the endo...

Yeah, maybe that squishy Sid ain't so bad after all. Tastes better anyway.

[CountZero]

Yeah, maybe that squishy Sid ain't so bad after all. Tastes better anyway.

Bunky, you know damn well that your SID is a piece of crap.

As a lightweight racing fork, it suffices. As an excuse fork, it's perfect. As an all-day, ride-anything weapon of mass destruction, it sucks.

You're not a person who races or makes excuses. So, why do you ride it?

:)

Your friend, Tommy.

[bunky]

. As an all-day, ride-anything weapon of mass destruction, it sucks.



Cool your jets, Mav.

Love, Iceman

[CountZero]

He he. I don't mean to be nasty about it.

Too many people are sold the SID when they would be infinitely happier with something like a Fox Vanilla. Bearing in mind that a Vanilla can be had for about $350.

On your Gunnar, the SID is appropriate. However, on a Blur or FSR, it's a sad joke.

I know for a fact that the guy who invented the SID never intended it to be used outside of racing. That fork was meant to be stripped and rebuilt after every race - no kidding.

[UpOnTwo]

Yeah, my bike came with a SID Team and I think it's a great fork for it's intended use but for the riding I do around these parts i wanted a stiffer fork. I went for a Marzocchi Marathon SL and been happy with my choice.

[Pete]

My SID Team has been rebuilt 3 times in 10 months. Just won't hold air(goes limp) after several rides. It performs great when its right but I cannot count on it. I am considering the purchase of a Fox which, curiously, now comes stock on the Epics.
I have been told that the Fox products are somewhat bombproof, at least more solid than the SIDs. I am looking for a fork that only needs its recommended service and can take a fair amount of abuse from a 180-200lb cross country/endurance racer.

2 cents?

[markie@unformat]

My old manitou mars elite is dying. 80mm fork options seem to be limited and expensive. I am thinking of just going back to a nice rigid project 2 from Kona. Maybe I will go bling and get the Pace carbon fiber fork....

The consensus seems to be that the SID is only OK if you are light, but I am 175lbs.


So does anyone over 150lbs have an 80 mm fork they like, that isn't a fox and wont cost more than $600?And hopefully wont need servicing too often?

[bikerRob]

My old manitou mars elite is dying. 80mm fork options seem to be limited and expensive. The consensus seems to be that the SID is only OK if you are light, but I am 175lbs....
....So does anyone over 150lbs have an 80 mm fork they like, that isn't a fox and wont cost more than $600?And hopefully wont need servicing too often?

2/16/05 >> I use the Mars Elite too. I bought mine a couple (3) yrs ago when one of the local bike shops was closing out and selling off their stock...I got it for a song.
For me the 80mm travel was an upgrade and the shock has worked great. I don't think I've ever bottomed it out but I usually ride with the shock pretty well pumped up (150 lbs psi).

I weigh close to your weight. Last year I rode at about 180 lbs all year and the Man. Elite worked just fine. I just had to remember to top the air off every couple days or so. This year I plan on getting my weight down to 170 lbs. (hopefully not wishful thinking) For people who think a cross country fork can't take the abuse of the hard trails I really don't know what to say. Last year I rode down the back side of Lookout Mountain (NE towards North River) in the GWNF This is one heck of a down-hill! (think Bear Wallow only a little steeper...maybe longer) I was constantly hitting drops and ledges...it was very tiring on my hands from the constant braking.. :o Other than that, the shock damping was great as was the tracking. I noticed no flexing or any other such problems. After three years of use, it still looks new. No pitting or noticeable wear on the sliders, and yes I did have them checked out just last year.

I'm sure there are more beefier forks that would give a plusher and more controlled ride however they will probably weigh a little more. It really depends on your riding style as to what works best for you. I would think by now that Manitou would have some new CC forks that might work even better. If you liked your old Manitou, you should consider a new one if you got the bucks. I hear the new SPV (damping) technology works great.
Rob

[markie@unformat]

Yea, that manitou elite has been alright to me. But a little while ago a seal got damaged and it scratched up one of the sliders. The new enduro seals revived it for a while, and if I get a new fork I have a spare pair if you want them. They are highly recommmended.

But now it just seems to randomly lock out, mostly at the least opportune of times. Watching other peoples forks at Elizabeth Furnace I got jealous of them and their working forks and their small bump compliance.


I have thought a bit about new forks, but the only current manitou 80mm fork is the skareb. It seems to get revues similar to the sid. But the word on the street is that manitou forks are not nearly as well made and reliable as they used to be. People seem to have difficulty in getting parts for only two year old forks, too.

[CountZero]

Why do you want super-light racing forks? Do you ride to race? Or, ride for fun?

Would you not be happier riding a stiff, coil-sprung 100mm fork, such as a Fox Vanilla R?

Fox Forks are short from axle to crown, so they don't chopper-out cross country bikes, even at their 100mm settings.

;)

[markie@unformat]

If it was an 80mm fork, if the 05 had V-brake mounts.

Otherwise I think you are spot on. I think there is a gap in the market for a reliable, OK, midweight, mid-priced 80mm fork.

[CountZero]

Remember the Manitou SX-R? It was THAT fork.

[Pete]

I think I am going to drop some bones on the Fox F100. Any thoughts from anyone on this fork, other than its price?

[CountZero]

Nice fork. If you have the money, and are riding a full-suspension bike, you might consider the Maverick DUC.

The Maverick mini is nice, too, but IMO not as nice as the really good Fox forks.

Tom

[pattisall]

The 2001/02 Sid XC hydra is the best fork ever built....air in the top, oil in the bottom. Park it upside down overnight and it feels like you just rebuilt it. Don't waste your money on bikeshop fork oil, go to a motorcycle shop and get a quart of belray or silkolene fork oil for about $4 a quart. Lube the upper seals and foam ring on a regular basis, put twice the oil RS recommends in the air chamber 4 cc instead of 2 cc and decrease the air pressure about 3 - 4 lbs. Check out angryasian.com for more info on tuning sids.