Question about Specialized Road Bikes

[patreek]

I'm looking at purchasing a road bike and really like the fit of Specialized Road bikes. My purpose for the road bike is to cross-train while working on my marathon training, hopefully start training for a triathlon, and improve my overall fitness level. My question is.. for those that know.. what are the main differences between the Tarmac, Allez, and Roubaix? And which would best serve my purpose? I'm new to road biking and not sure which I should start with. Thanks.

[punga]

I'm looking at purchasing a road bike and really like the fit of Specialized Road bikes. My purpose for the road bike is to cross-train while working on my marathon training, hopefully start training for a triathlon, and improve my overall fitness level. My question is.. for those that know.. what are the main differences between the Tarmac, Allez, and Roubaix? And which would best serve my purpose? I'm new to road biking and not sure which I should start with. Thanks.

A brief break down:

Roubaix: most relaxed geometry of the 3, including a more up right position, slacker head tube and seat tube angles. Has rack mount braze ons. Intention: Long rides and touring. Most models are made carbon fiber.

Allez: more aggressive geometry than Roubaix. Geared to weekend racer types with steeper angles all around and more stretched out top tube. Made from mixed Al and carbon.

Tarmac: very quick handling bike with a low flat position. Aimed at serious racers. All models made of CF (I think). Least comfortable of the three, but made to go fast.

Come by Citybikes in Chevy Chase, we've got all three on the floor, and take some back to back test rides.

p!

[BikerMiker]

Aw. New guys.

The Tarmac is comfy. The Allez is the least comfy.

Time to spank Punga...

mike

[punga]

I meant in terms of a low, flat position. I know about CF/Al.

:rolleyes:

p!

[BikerMiker]

Geo on the Tarmac and Allez are both racey.

mike

[ride_clyde]

I did the same analysis when my LBS was closing out Specialized last year. I had an AL road bike that I had hardly ridden. I bought the Tarmac because it is comfy and fast and the frame was worth upgrading for years. I bought a low end, if there is such a thing, Tarmac for $1699.

Now I ride the RB more than I ever thought I would because it is comfy and fast, but I guess i already mentioned that point..

My opinion on the other geometry is that the Roubaix felt like a hybrid and Allez would ultimately be limiting. But that doesn't matter, go ride all three and make up your own mind based on fit.

One last thing, the adjustable stem makes getting used to the road position helpful.

[patreek]

Quick question about my first road bike shopping experience. I'm a hair under 6'2", 34" inseam.. I was expecting to be placed on a 58cm road bike but was told I should ride a 60cm. I'm going to check some other shops when I can get out of Ashburn.. but does that sound right?

[CRAIG2]

Quick question about my first road bike shopping experience. I'm a hair under 6'2", 34" inseam.. I was expecting to be placed on a 58cm road bike but was told I should ride a 60cm. I'm going to check some other shops when I can get out of Ashburn.. but does that sound right?

Well, that depends on the frame, I'm sure, but it does sound reasonable. I'm 6' 4" and while my 60cm Cannondale just fits, my 63cm Trek fits a lot better. 58cm for you sounds a bit on the short side, but as all frames are different, no one can make an absolute statement based on your inseam other than something along the lines of "A 49cm frame will not fit you" or something. Test rides are critical, my man.

[patreek]

Thanks for the quick response Craig. My concern came from the fact that the shop had no 58cm bikes to compare against. I was told I could take a spin for 15 minutes or so but it was almost closing time. This weekend when I have more time I'll have to adventure out to a few more shops that have both sizes.

[CRAIG2]

Thanks for the quick response Craig. My concern came from the fact that the shop had no 58cm bikes to compare against. I was told I could take a spin for 15 minutes or so but it was almost closing time. This weekend when I have more time I'll have to adventure out to a few more shops that have both sizes.

No worries. Definitely go for the spin. 58cm just *sounds* small, but not all frames fit the same, even when marked identically, so the 58cm might be all you. Or it might just feel terrible. There's just no way to say "You're this tall, so you should ride this size bike." I wish it were that easy!

[g_barr]

My question is.. for those that know.. what are the main differences between the Tarmac, Allez, and Roubaix?
The guys who know the difference between the three have answered...

I got a 2007 Allez Double for the same reasons you are interested in a road bike plus it was within the budget. As punga said, it is a more aggressive geometry - different than a MTB for sure but nice for road riding and commuting. One thing you will notice immediately on an aluminum frame, carbon fork and 23mm tires (at 100+ psi) is the ride is firm! I don't know if the Zertz inserts help. I am not thrilled with the Shimano Sora shifters because of the thumb "trigger" but they work.

As for Specialized, I'd say that any of their products will probably be well supported.

[blacknell]

Test rides, test rides, test rides. I think that test rides for your first road bike are pretty tough. It's an entirely new geometry (and not at all intuitive, I think), and there are a lot of unrealized factors. Sure a 58 cm frame might feel good on a Specialized in the first parking lot, but then try the 58cm Litespeed with the longer stem in the next, and, well, it's all different, isn't it? I could point out that I ride a well-fitted 58cm at 6'1 with a 32" inseam, but that doesn't really help, I think (esp. since I've really had to screw with my stem to get things right).

That said, my advice follows everyone else - keep riding as many models as you have patience for. If you've already sorted what pedals you're going to ride, buy and bring them to each session. Go somewhere like Cap Hill Bikes, City Bikes, or Conte's (i.e., where they have a clue) and tell them that you really need to figure out your own geometry. Any shop worth its s)@# on a non-Saturday afternoon will spend some time sorting that out with you. Good luck.

[CRAIG2]

One thing you will notice immediately on an aluminum frame, carbon fork and 23mm tires (at 100+ psi) is the ride is firm! I don't know if the Zertz inserts help. I am not thrilled with the Shimano Sora shifters because of the thumb "trigger" but they work.



General observation - if you can afford something with at least carbon fiber seat stays, do yourself the favor and go for it. It's amazing the difference that will make from an aluminum frame / rear triangle. I have an aluminum frame with acarbon fork, seatpost, and stays. It's a smooth ride. The carbon fork alone isn't quite as nice.

Also, if you have the coin, don't settle on Sora - do yourself another favor and at least go up to the 105 stuff. It's just better. It's probably the equivalent of LX on mountain bikes - not the lightest or greatest, but solid.

For commuting / touring / general street riding, 23cm is ok, but 25cm is primo IMHO. It's the best balance of efficiency, function, and comfort.

[blacknell]

Gbarr just reminded me of two points:

1) Don't fall into peer pressure - get a triple, and
2) realize that now is the cheapest time to set your component level. Dura Ace is overkill 9 of 10 times, but I promise that you'll notice a difference between, say, Tiagra and 105 within the first couple of weeks. In my own experience, I was served pretty well by a 105 gruppo when I bought a bike. Just upgraded to a full Ultegra kit. Noticeable improvements, but not astoundingly so. Also, incremental upgrades between the 105-DA range makes some sense. Between Tiagra/Sora and the 105/DA stuff? Not so much.

[jed]

I have a 2005 Roubaix Comp double, and I love it. I went for the Roubaix because I don't want to get beat up on the road, the comfy ride appealed to me. They didn't have the Tarmac then, though, or at least it was nothing like the current model, so maybe I would get that now. My Roublaix is similar to the '07 Roubaix Pro in terms of parts. They have changed the frame some since mine was made but the geometry is the same. It is really smooth to ride. It handles great. Maybe it's not "racy" but I don't care. Mine has a longer stem so my position is low enough.

I went for good stuff as far as parts because I got a killer deal on my bike, I don't expect to get another road bike anytime soon and I knew I'd put a lot of miles on it. I ride a lot, so I will wear out cheap stuff. 105 is probably fine, although get the best you can afford, because it's not like you have to worry too much about ripping a derailleur off or something unless you are a crasher. The stuff will last a long time with much less maintenance than MTB stuff requires. And a double chainring setup is fine, especially if it's a compact. A triple is overkill. 34x27 is a really low gear for pavement, especially if you are not riding in the mountains.

Oh yeah, the Sram road stuff is really nice. If I was going to buy road components now I would get that. There's no need to restrict yourself to Shimano.

[g_barr]

...23cm is ok...
Funny, that's not exactly what you said in your other post (http://www.more-mtb.org/forum/showpost.php?p=99605&postcount=13)!

I think Craig is right about adding carbon to the frame. A full aluminum Allez transmits the smallest pavement joints... straight to the saddle.

Sorry blacknell, I gotta go with jed on the double too. It's not succumbing to peer pressure as much as it is likely unnecessary to have a "granny" range in NoVA. The gear ratios of a double matched (and exceeded) what I typically would select when riding the MTB on asphalt. I also like the simplicity of having fewer transmission parts.

I wish 105 was in the budget but I have a good platform for improvements and my road ride is for training, commuting (Specialized already screams "steal me" - can you imagine an Allez Comp Double not being better prey?) and keeping the muddy trail blues to a minimum.

Most important patreek is to take time to find the right size frame and don't be afraid to ask to swap a stem or saddle during test rides (and for your purchase). A good shop should be more than willing to make sure your purchase fits properly.

[eloach]

Quick question about my first road bike shopping experience. I'm a hair under 6'2", 34" inseam.. I was expecting to be placed on a 58cm road bike but was told I should ride a 60cm. I'm going to check some other shops when I can get out of Ashburn.. but does that sound right?

I am 6 foot and have a 33" inseam and take a 58 (Fuji), 57 (Rocky Mountain) or 56 (Giant). Then I got on a Felt race bike and the top tube on the 56 felt WAY too long, so much so that I didn't buy the bike and will probably go Trek or Spec for the next road bike (a more race oriented bike than my century plus oriented bike). You need to try both sizes.

I'd buy the Tarmac or the Roubaix in a second. One is for century plus type riding and the other is for going faster than it's safe to go anywhere around here except in a pack or a race. I have not tried the equivalent Trek bikes, but I will before I buy. Specialized is a little ahead of the game right now, IMO.

You might also want to take a look at an Orbea Orca, depending on how much you want to spend. It's fast but stable... which of course you pay for.

[eloach]

I have a triple. Don't buy one. My granny is a virgin and I have ridden everything around here. I thought I would need it for Sky Line Drive and such... well, no, I don't.

It's funny, the sales guy tried to lead me to the double (credit him for that!), since he had both in my size, but Nooooooooooooo... I wanted the triple for those looooong training rides. I don't think I realized how much easier it was to ride a road bike as compared to a mountain bike. In fact, I haven't even used the larger cogs much at all.

Maybe I'd need the granny out in CO or maybe Mt. Washington or something.

I should add, I am nothing special in terms of riding ability. Just average. No need for a triple at all.

[Dirt]

Do not fall into the trap of picking a bicycle by the length of the seat tube. That measurement tells you nothing. My flat top-tube road bike is a 64cm frame. I recently was sized and fitted for a compact road frame and the model I was looking at was a 53cm and it was a little long.

The measurement that is most important when sizing a bicycle is the TOP tube length. Certainly many other dimensions come into play, but discussing bicycle fit based upon seat tube length is about as useful as discussing bicycle fit based upon frame color.

If you're shopping for a serious road bike, definitely go to a shop and pay to have yourself professionally fit. It is possible, but not recommended to get by with a mountain bike that doesn't fit. You'll be miserable on a road bike that doesn't fit.

Most good shops will charge you a price for a serious fitting. Most good shops will also give you part or all of the price of the fitting against the price of a bike that you buy from them.

Learn your numbers and carry a tape measure with you when you shop and test ride. At least know what the exact pedal spindle to saddle height measurement is so that you can quickly and easily set saddle height. That helps guarantee that you're comparing apples and apples when you're setting out for a test ride.

Take your own pedals, or make sure that the shop has the same pedals you use when you test ride. You're going to use them after you buy the bike, so why not get the feel for the bike with them so that is not a distraction.

If I'm serious about testing a bicycle, I even bring my own saddle, though at the moment I'm not happy with what I've got so I need to get a new one.

Hope that helps a little. Test riding is one of the great pleasures of bike shopping. Take the time to really enjoy it.

Pete

[Dirt]

Maybe I'd need the granny out in CO or maybe Mt. Washington or something.

I have to say that I agree with eloach on this. I'd get a tripple if I was doing loaded touring in the rockies. I've got a pretty good belly on me these days and a tripple would be overkill for haulling it up most anything around this area.

Pete

[Dirt]

For commuting / touring / general street riding, 23cm is ok, but 25cm is primo IMHO. It's the best balance of efficiency, function, and comfort.

Sorry to keep flooding this thread with responses. I'm a little late in getting here.

Start with 25mm tires and see how they feel. If you haven't ridden a road bike much, they're definitely a good place to start. If the bike you settle on comes with 23mm tires, then I'd just ride them and start there.

I personally prefer 23mm tires, though that might have something to do with my current road frame not having clearance for 25s. ;) Even if it did, I'd still ride 23s. I like the zoomie feel of them.

[BikerMiker]

Pete (dirt) is right.

mike

[eloach]

Sorry to keep flooding this thread with responses. I'm a little late in getting here.

Start with 25mm tires and see how they feel. If you haven't ridden a road bike much, they're definitely a good place to start. If the bike you settle on comes with 23mm tires, then I'd just ride them and start there.

I personally prefer 23mm tires, though that might have something to do with my current road frame not having clearance for 25s. ;) Even if it did, I'd still ride 23s. I like the zoomie feel of them.

A bike that goes no larger than 23s? Yikes! I will have to watch for that when I buy a more race oriented bike. I think I'd like to fit 25s if desired, however unlikely that might be on a race bike. I have 25s on my triple. Specialized All Condition Armadillo Elite Reflective... if they last as long as that name I will certainly get my money out of them. Great commuting tire, BTW.

My next road bike will be a double with 23s. I think the compound that a road tire is made of makes a HUGE difference in how fast it goes, in addition to the 23 vs 25. I have been super impressed with the speed and grip of Specialized road tires.

[blacknell]

See all this peer pressure? :)

For me, there's next to no penalty (cost or weightwise) for a triple for my applications (workouts, weekends in Shenandoah, and back of the pack crit/road racing). Also, I like to grind away at most of my riding in 53x11, so I'm not really one for a compact crankset. But that triple saves me when I get to the longer slogs in Shenandoah (or, on 41st St). To me, that's something I find useful (at time where I'm really looking for something useful), and it doesn't extract any appreciable cost to have it.

[punga]

See all this peer pressure? :)

For me, there's next to no penalty (cost or weightwise) for a triple for my applications (workouts, weekends in Shenandoah, and back of the pack crit/road racing). Also, I like to grind away at most of my riding in 53x11, so I'm not really one for a compact crankset. But that triple saves me when I get to the longer slogs in Shenandoah (or, on 41st St). To me, that's something I find useful (at time where I'm really looking for something useful), and it doesn't extract any appreciable cost to have it.
I'm with blacknell on the triple. Being kinda new to road riding, I like having the option of the granny for the occasional tough climb and I don't see any drawbacks in having the option.

Don't let 'em sweat ya ;)

punga